What would possess someone to wait for two or more hours to
buy a cake? When I heard about Uncle Tetsu and their notoriously long lines, it
was the first thing to pop into my mind. Two hours? It better be some damn good
cake!
In May, I found myself with a day off work and no particular
plans; I knew this would be my chance to finally brave the line. @Tetsulineup provides pictures of the
queue throughout each day and weekdays at the end of the lunch hour seemed
shortest to me. Arming myself with magazines and a full stomach, I made my way
to the store and joined a line that reached the start of the narrow driveway
between Uncle Tetsu and the neighbouring building.
On a beautiful sunny day the time went by quickly; I got through
a magazine, made a couple of reservations and before I knew it, half an hour
later, entered the store. The smell is intoxicating with whiffs of butter,
sugar and egg dancing throughout the small bakery. There was much to see with
the batter being carefully combined and the madeleines funneled into their
waiting cups.
Really, the last fifteen minutes in the store flew by and
before I knew it a fresh cake was being branded with the familiar smiling
cartoon character, then boxed and bagged in front of me. At last, the coveted
six inch cheesecake ($8.88) and add on madeleines ($2.22 each, buy 3 get 1
free) were mine!
In reading reviews on the product, descriptions often used
are “soft”, “light in cheese flavor” and “light”. Conceptually, I could imagine
what the cake was like but didn’t seem detailed enough to understand what made
them so good. So, I will attempt to expand on my thoughts for the cheesecake.
The Smell
Despite the rich buttery smell at the bakery, which must be
derived from the madeleines, the cheesecake is relatively muted in smell. In
the end, there’s only a delicate sweet egg-like fragrance.
The Consistency
When viewing the cake it looks like a larger Korean honey
cake – a light airy sponge cake. But, upon touch it’s much moister and heavier
than expected. The consistency isn’t cake-like at all: as you cut through it
with a fork you can hear small bubbles give way and the cake bounce back up.
The closest thing I can describe it to is the coconut
gelatin desserts found at dim sum restaurants, when eaten warm. There are small
air pockets that contrast against the smoothness of the cake. However, after
chilling it in the fridge it becomes denser and closer to the western
cheesecake consistency; even denser still on the second day.
The Taste
It’s remarkable how different the cake will taste when eaten
warm compared to chill. Progressing even further when eaten on the first day
compared to the second – I know you’re likely wondering how I made it last two
days!
Everyone seems to have their own opinion as to what tastes
best so I’d suggest trying both to gauge your preference. Personally, I could
eat it either way but do like the cold cheesier version. When warm, there’s a
delicate flavour (think ricotta or whipped cream cheese) that ever so slightly
peaks out to remind you this isn’t a sponge cake – a cheesecake peek-a-boo. But,
once chilled the cheese isn’t hiding anymore; it’s definitely there and you’ll
taste it. Having said that, it is still much lighter than the New York cheesecake
variety you’ll eat.
Uncle Tetsu’s menu is still expanding and the only other
item currently being sold in large quantities are their madeleines - a larger
version of the French butter cakes. Theirs is still rich and fragrant except
the top of it has a crust rather than being a delicate cake.
Unlike muffins where the top of the pastry is the best part;
I found the madeleine’s bottom layer more desirable. These certainly aren’t
worth the wait. But, if you’re already there, you might as well pick up one to
try. They have their own appeal: once you get past the crust, you’re greeted
with a moist buttery pound cake that leaves a delicious eggy vanilla scent in
your mouth.
If you’re one of the first customers, you may also get to
purchase a cone of Uncle Tetsu rusks ($6.66), dried biscotti like offerings
made from damaged day-old cheesecakes.
In speaking with the cashier who works there, she notes they
are already planning other Toronto locations (maybe at Union Station and/or
getting more property around their Bay and Dundas location). Perhaps, at that
time, customers can finally start purchasing some of their other baked offerings
including the Angel hat, other flavours of madeleines and from their website
something called the Sol-chan’s cheese tart? Nevertheless, the original
cheesecake will likely be what draws people in.
With the store opening earlier at 7am, hopefully more people
can get their cheesecake fix in any given day. Indeed, I wouldn’t wait for two
hours to get another taste of the cake, but perhaps half an hour, on a nice day
- that would be bearable.
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 598 Bay Street
Address: 598 Bay Street
Website: http://uncletetsu-ca.com/
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