The Libertine has new owners - friends Matt, Phil and Swiss
who have worked there previously and understands visitors. Libertine has
similarities to its predecessor: the mysterious speakeasy theme, a small plate
format menu and champagne glass cocktails. Customers continue to visit the
Toronto lounge for their laid back vibe: there aren’t snooty bouncers, minimum
spends or dress codes in effect.
But, with the new ownership comes a new menu. Most dishes are snack style, with the sole larger plate being a panko cod with slaws
($30). It’s certainly multi-cultural with
Middle Eastern, Asian, Italian and American influences. Given Chef J.P.’s
background, the Middle Eastern plates are the strongest with well-balanced
flavours and sparks of originality.
The falafel blinis ($9 for three pieces), is a dish made up
of many tastes but is combined in a way that works. Spiced falafels are
flattened slightly to give it more surface area to develop a crunchy crust. It’s
then placed on a sweet maple blini and topped with candied bitter melon, swiss
chard slaw, crunchy fennel and a smooth cumin tahini. These are certainly much
too delicious to be gluten-free and vegan friendly.
Another delightful gluten-free vegan dish is the coconut and
pecan arancini ($7). The creamy
risotto, cooked in coconut soy milk, gives the balls a tropical Thai feel. But,
it’s the gochujang (a fermented Korean
chili paste) almond butter, paired with the arancini
that makes the dish: adding a nutty spicy kick to balance the risotto’s
sweetness and keeps the dish savoury.
Libertine’s hummus ($6) is rich and smooth with soft
chickpeas on top to give the dip a meaty texture. Plenty of smoky paprika
coated pitas accompany the hummus for dipping.
The mac ‘n’ cheese balls ($8 for three pieces) is definitely
not short of flavours with the chipotle mayo and garlic & cheese sauce,
which is strong and sharp. They arrive piping hot with a wonderful crust, but
would be even better if the cheese sauce had a molten stringy texture... it’s the
gooey decadence that makes it coveted and sinful.
The pork and potato Asian slaw ($9) would excite any
carnivore with its meat to vegetable ratio - there are so many pieces of soft
pork tossed in a sweet Chinese cha shiu
sauce! The slaws are dressed right before serving so the cabbage retains its
crisp texture. I would have liked the chips to be served on the side as once
mixed into everything they become soggy.
A popular dish at Libertine is their baby clam po’ boys ($9).
J.P. dresses the sandwich with pickled white turnips, rainbow chard, an apple
cilantro mayo and a spicy kick from the scotch bonnet sauce. It was only the
house-made buttermilk bun that was a miss for me - although delicious on its
own, it was much too heavy and overpowered the delicate clams.
Their daily dessert ($7) was cinnamon sugar dusted churros that
came with a fabulous coconut dulce de leche sauce. I could have had that sauce
on anything – pound cake, waffles, crepes – it makes anything delicious.
Most people go to Libertine for their drinks. Although they
all look similar, the flavours couldn’t be more different:
- The Giver ($14) is my drink - refreshing and aromatic made with gin, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, chartreuse and lime.
- The Marguereta ($14) is the most easy drinking of the four with tequila, Aperol, orange juice, lemon and honey.
- The Queen bitch ($13) is surprising – I wasn’t sure what gin, cacao, lillet and lemon would taste like together. But, the cacao is a great addition adding a lovely aroma and unique flavour.
- With the 94 proof kraken black spice rum you know the Dirty Nellie ($15) is going to be strong. Then there’s bourbon added to it as well! Although it’s by no means a light drink, the lemon and grapefruit does help to mellow it out.
Even if you’ve been to the Libertine, with the new ownership,
it may be time to check them out again. The menu’s been simplified with food as
varied and unique as their cocktails. But it’s their laidback friendly vibe
that keeps you coming back. I’m over the days of waiting in lines only to be
crammed into a bar like a sardine. So, it’s refreshing to find a place you can
visit in flip flops or heels and feel just as welcomed. The fact that you can
get a great arancini when you’re
drunk, that’s just a bonus.
Disclaimer: The meal was complimentary. But, as noted in Gastro World's mission statement, I will always provide my honest opinion.
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 1307 Dundas Street West
Address: 1307 Dundas Street West
Website: http://www.thelibertinespeak.com/
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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
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