Massey Hall goers now have the perfect spot for a
pre-theatre dinner: La Bettola di Terroni. If loading up on carbs and a glass
(or two) of Italian wine is your idea of pre-show bliss, this little corner of Toronto
delivers a warm start.
Meals begin with a complimentary basket of white and
whole-wheat Italian bread, served with olive oil and a spicy pepper
bomba, a fiery spread that wakes up the palate and pairs beautifully with
whatever pasta or pizza follows.
Their fettuccine alla bolognese ($26) is a
safe choice. The sauce is done properly with plenty of meat (a beef and pork
blend) with just enough tomato to tint it red. It clings nicely to the wide
noodles that verge on pappardelle territory, though the dish could use a
touch more seasoning and a snowfall of Parmesan to really shine.
The chitarra alla norcina ($30) starts off
strong, with freshly shaved truffle prominently displayed on top. But then the crumbled
sausage takes over, its oiliness overpowering the delicate flavors beneath. A
pity, because the handmade pasta itself is good – chewy and satisfying.
Flavours deepen with the costoletta di manzo ($47),
a hunk of braised beef short rib that’s both meaty and tender, perched atop a
creamy polenta seasoned simply with its braising liquid. It’s a true secondi, comforting and rustic, but not quite enough to stand alone without a
starter.
With barely a vegetable in sight, we added a side of rapini
($12), sautéed with just a whisper of garlic and chili flakes. It was a
welcome burst of bitterness amid a sea of richness.
For those sensitive to salt, La Bettola di Terroni may be
just right - the kitchen leans toward the under-seasoned side. It’s not a
dealbreaker, and perhaps kinder on the heart, but I did find myself wishing for
a saltshaker to perk up a few dishes.
When we arrived after work, the room was nearly empty, but
by 6 pm it was buzzing with theatregoers heading to a show across the street. Reservations
are wise. Service is efficient and knowledgeable, if not exactly warm... think
brisk and businesslike rather than chatty and charming.
Is it the most exciting Italian in the city? No. But when you’re steps from Massey Hall with a glass of wine and a decent bowl of pasta, who’s complaining?
In a nutshell...
- Must order: fettuccine alla bolognese
- Just skip: chitarra alla norcina
Address: 106 Victoria Street
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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