What makes a Visa Infinite Dinner different is the melding of acclaimed chefs from outside of Toronto with well known local restaurants. My first experience brought together the 30+ year institution, Auberge du Pommier, with Mastard of Montreal, which is part of Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants. Together they created a food and beverage tasting menu ($282.50 per person inclusive of taxes and gratuities) combining the talents of two kitchens.

Don’t worry about arriving late to the weeknight dinner. With the 6:30pm start, the first bites of canapés didn’t start arriving until well past 7:00pm. And instantly I was intrigued on what the low-sided crystal bowl contained. The concentrated ham broth with cameline oil gave off a smoky ham-fueled flavour that was intense solo. But once I dipped a piece of brioche into consommé, the flavours mellow and combined nicely with the buttery toast studded with the sphere of meaty duck sausage.

Sweet and salty combinations run in the blood of both chefs. It’s evident in the brown cheese taco filled with whipped foie gras that creates a creamy and crunchy combination. It continues with the first taste of dessert, a spice cake that gets a savoury spike from black garlic emulsion. Get ready riders as we set off to Flavour Town.

Next station, a candied sockeye salmon that’s dense and chewy swimming in dill oil and dollops of smoked crème fraiche. I’m glad the dish incorporates a lot of green sorrel chiffonade as it helps neutralize the abundance of silky dill sauce. It’s a dish loved by the table, but I found it too oily (half the oil is sufficient) and salty.

Give me another slice of lettuce tart any day. Chef Simon Mathys undersells the dish as a mere combination of lettuce and caviar, but it’s so much more. The lettuce juice forms a silky custard with a vibrant green colour that screams of spring. They smartly went with a thin flaky tart shell that’s crispy and contrasts against the creamy centre. And of course, it’s finished with caviar, the saltiness complimenting the tart wonderfully.

Chugging along, the spring mushroom risotto was too overdone resembling a porridge packed with mushrooms, grilled wild onion, artichoke crisps, and first-of-the-season morels. Chef Kane Vane Ee notes how many contacts it took to source the morels, which were sublime and made the dish. Thank you for the hard work!

I enjoy dishes featuring different textures and enjoyed seeing the battered and deep-fried fowl in the quail and scallop. While the quail’s breast was a tad chewy, the drumstick was cooked to perfection and made me want to nosh through half a dozen more. The scallop was also seared nicely and paired well with the shrimp sauce, which had a bisque-like taste that made me wish I asked for a spoon.

A vibrant green tea opera cake finishes the luxurious spring menu continuing the lovely green colour palette. Thin even layers of almond sponge, chocolate ganache, and elderflower cream is painstakingly put together by Auberge’s new pastry chef. If you’ve read my historical visits to Auberge, I generally find the desserts boring and end with a cheese plate. That will change if the opera cake graces the menu.  

As the ride makes its way to the final stop around 10pm, the atmosphere has really shifted. They’re generous with the alcohol, regularly topping up wines and even the Diplomatico rum based cocktails for diners who want more. And with the liberal liberations, the once hushed diners start to let loose.

We almost don’t want to leave as the plate of petit fours are presented. I slowly made my way through the chewy pistachio macaron and sampled a bite from the two chocolates.

It could be due to the two extra glasses of Domain des Coutures L’Insolente saumur blanc kicking in, but it took me a couple of attempts to pick up the candied quince meringue… of course the top layer of cream can’t be held, move down to the crispy base instead! At last, the airy meringue, juicy cube of quince, and cool cream made for a great ending. Visa Infinite Dinner, until we meet again in June.

Usually, when I visit a restaurant for dim sum, I’m going for the small dishes filled with bite sized morsels for sharing amongst a table. Things change at Jumbo Lobster where seafood is king. Especially since they only have 24 dim sum dishes (one being French fries) on their menu.

It’s a restaurant made for large gatherings, even a table of four is too tiny. Otherwise, it’d be difficult to order one of their two lunch menus where charges are based on the size of the lobster: $35/lb for 5lbs+ and $36/lb for 10lbs+.  While the price difference is minimal, the surcharge for the 10lb+ meal allows diners to have the lobster prepared two ways and arrives with additional dim sum dishes (eight vs. five).

The 10lb+ lunch menu (or L2 for $36/lb) includes lobster, eight dim sum, congee, fried rice, and a vegetable dish. Out of the stir-fried green onion and ginger and deep-fried dry garlic lobsters, I preferred the traditional onion and ginger as the crustacean’s flavours were more pronounce and felt juicier and plumper.

Despite the mountain of ingredients filling the deep-fried garlic version, it just tasted salty with a hint of sweetness. I can see the dish being favoured by children as it sits on a bed of French fries, which were kind of stale given they’re prepared ahead of time.

Any lobster tomalley is reserved for the lobster roe and shrimp fried rice, which was prepared well. The dish had decent wok hay, and the rice dry enough so there were distinct granules of grain. It was so good that our table finished the entire plate.

To balance the heavier items, there’s a generous portion of poached snow pea tips with goji berry, which were stir fried until tender but still crispy and fresh.

After ordering it does take about 30 minutes before dishes arrive - an anomaly at dim sum where things normally start flying in as soon as the menu is whisked away. In fact, the first item presented isn’t even dim sum, rather a large bowl of chicken congee that’s piping hot and contains tons of bone-in skin-on chicken. It’s a hearty and flavourful way to begin.

What I enjoy about Jumbo Lobster’s dim sum is that they make each item smaller to include more in a dish, making it easier to share. For example, a dish like shrimp dumplings generally arrive in fours but there are six at Jumbo Lobster.

The exception was the steamed rice rolls, which may be slightly longer but contained two rolls instead of three. Nonetheless, they were thin and silky and likely one of the items made in house.

Dishes like the steamed buns seemed like they were purchased frozen wholesale as they were all perfect spheres making the filling indecipherable. Wanting a pork bun, I played Russian roulette and was left with salted egg yolk instead. To their credit, it’s a solid interpretation of the dessert – a creamy molten centre with small egg yolk pieces mixed throughout. Sadly, the sweet and salty filling is not for me.

Much to my chagrin, it’s the same filling used in their deep-fried sesame balls, which were warm and crispy but not filled with lotus paste.

As for the staple dishes, their siu mai just contained pork but were rather juicy. Contrasted against the beef balls that were too dense, even when eaten hot from the steamer.

And while Jumbo Lobster provides a decent portion of meat in the pork spare rib, it lacks flavour as there’s more pumpkin than black bean sauce. The table seemed to prefer the beef belly with special sauce instead.

We were thoroughly sedated after our meal and were quickly pushed out after 1.5 hours to accommodate the bustling Sunday crowd. And for the financially savvy: paying with cash will net you a 10% discount. But, if plastic is your thing, stick with debit as credit card payments command an additional 3% surcharge. Whatever you do, just gather a group of at least ten, you’ll need them to get through the mountain of lobster.

Amongst the block bordered by Avenue, Wilson, Yonge, and Lawrence there are a lot of Italian restaurants. And they offer similar carb heavy menus filled with pasta and pizza, a few even displaying prominent pizza ovens. And that’s why it took me a while to visit Via Mercanti. At first glance, it didn’t seem unique. Yet, it has a bright and airy laid-back vibe that’s different from others in the neighbourhood.

While their menu consists of similar offerings, their pizza list is more extensive and has exclusive options such as their namesake double layered pizza. For my preliminary visit, I opted for the familiar bufalina pizza ($29), a tomato-based pie topped with fior di latte, buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto slices, and basil.

The well blistered dough was pillowy soft having that requisite chewiness but a delicate flavour. What really shone through was the fresh tomato sauce, a hint of sweet saltiness from the tissue thin pork, and the creamy cheese. Some diners may find it too bland, but I liked the lightness of the pizza, which balanced the heavier pasta dishes.

Ideally, you’ll eat family style so you can order the gnocchi norcina ($32) and Bolognese together as the sauces compliment each other. The finely minced mushroom, crumbled sausage, and black truffle paste covering to the soft potato dumplings was delicious but cloyingly heavy, so a couple spoons were more than enough.

Yet, after trying the blander Bolognese ($25), the simpleness of the slightly acidic sauce made me want another taste of the gnocchi. In fact, grab a dumpling and swirl it into the tomato sauce and the rich rosé-like creation was even better.

On its own the Bolognese was disappointing. Being a meat-based sauce, there wasn’t much meat - some beef but none of the pork and pancetta that gives it a hearty edge. It was also too tomato heavy becoming a tomato and beef ragu than Bolognese. And no, they are not the same thing.

Via Mercanti’s appetizers are also substantial for sharing. There was plenty of calamari, but not many shrimp, in the frittura di pesce ($26), lightly dusted and fried until golden but not overly crispy. It’s a little plain neutral but delicious with the hot tomato dipping sauce.

The tiramisu ($15) was a solid interpretation but needed more lady fingers as there were spots where I had a spoon of the mascarpone cream and nothing else. Perhaps it’s designed to appease children as the espresso flavour was also too light.

Indeed, Via Mercanti is a family friendly restaurant that you can bring a crowd. Their dining room is surprisingly spacious with a few tables accommodating 10+ people. And there’s a laid-back friendliness to the staff, exuding a welcoming attitude but not bothersome, providing you with time to relax and settle in before diving into the next part of the process. All in all, I enjoyed the vibe, even if not all the food. 

Located in Union Station, Blue Bovine Steak and Sushi House is not the easiest place to find. Most eateries are found on the lower levels, but Blue Bovine is situated street level with no storefront. The easiest way to locate the restaurant is head to the Front and Bay Street corner, look for a large bronze bull statue, and walk up the steps through those doors.

Their happy hour menu, available weekdays from 3pm to 6pm in the lounge, is a big draw for tourists and commuters alike. By the time I got there at 5:30pm, the place was bustling and in full swing.

For those who are peckish, the happy hour menu includes a good selection of sharable plates.

The Chef’s selection maki roll ($16) arrived as a run-of-the-mill spicy tuna. For a restaurant that touts itself as a “Sushi House”, I’m surprised that the rice was too cold and pressed into such a thick layer than the tame tuna filling became lost. Perhaps leaning into the “Steakhouse” side would be better.

Certainly, the wagyu beef slider ($10 each) was more impressive. The beef patty was flavourful and juicy, but complimented nicely with crisp lettuce, tomato, and sauce. I instantly wanted to order the larger burger ($45) after the slider.

The karaage chicken ($14) was substantial compared to other options. Chunks of dark meat was lightly breaded and fried. While not outstanding, they were at least hot and hearty.

In fact, get an order of the karaage or sliders and tack on the truffle fries ($12) to create a full meal. The fries were crispy, hot, and had a prominent but not overwhelming truffle taste. A fancier chicken fingers and fries perhaps.

If the duck spring rolls ($14) were crispier it would help provide the crunchy contrast that’s needed to combat the ground duck filling. While it was light and fluffy, there wasn’t much but the ground meat, so the spring roll felt mushy. Adding Peking duck accompaniments into the filling like carrot, scallion, and cucumbers may help.

For those who are standing around with their drinks, the big eye tuna tartare ($12) and prime steak tartare ($12) are easiest to eat having been pre-scooped onto thin crispy crostini. Both were nicely seasoned. Yet, the fried garlic slivers topping the tartare, which is a powerful tasting ingredient, does make both proteins taste similar.

The ½ price bar special, includes almost the entire menu except for select wines. Still, even being half off, cocktails ring in at $11-$15 and large glasses of wine around $22-$25. Hardly budget but at least keeps the drinks at a reasonable price. Pregame or post-work, I can see why Blue Bovine draws a crowd. Now go find it.