Rice and Flame reminds us how rice has been cooked for
centuries: grains simmered patiently over an open flame. While most of us now
rely on plug-and-go rice cookers, traditional Chinese claypot rice is made in
clay or earthenware pots. It requires careful heat control and a bit of oil,
but the reward is a pot of rice that’s fluffy and moist on top, with a deeply
satisfying crunchy crust on the bottom.
When Instagram started buzzing about Rice and Flame’s
“ancient” claypot rice, I was intrigued. It was winter, and a hearty pot of
rice sounded exactly right. That said, I was also wary since the social media
hype seemed more focused on the restaurant’s aesthetics and décor than the
food. And while Rice and Flame is bright, airy, and comfortable, white chairs
be damned… I came for the rice.
While many diners gravitate toward the braised pork belly, I
knew the richness would be too much for me. Instead, I went with the golden
satay beef pot rice ($22.99), which proved more up my alley. The satay
flavour is subtle, with the well-marbled brisket tasting closer to Taiwanese
braised beef with just a hint of earthiness. The rice itself was deeply
flavoured, and the sauce helped form a beautifully caramelized crust, which was
exactly what I was hoping for!
That said, the beef cuts were hit-or-miss. Some pieces were
tender and flavourful, while others were tough and gristly and really should
have been discarded. The surprise standout? Soft, chewy pieces of tendon that
were easily my favourite part, and I wished there had been more.
Diners choose a rice base of bok choy with salted pork or
mushroom and diced beef. Unfortunately, there doesn’t appear to be a vegetarian
option. I stuck with the beef base, which worked overall, though the “diced
beef” was really halved beef balls like those you’d find at hot pot
restaurants. The mushrooms, meanwhile, were sparse and felt like an
afterthought.
Rice and Flame could also rethink the order in which dishes
are served. After such a flavourful start, the rainbow braised chicken pot
rice ($19.99) felt flat by comparison. Even the theatrical shaving
of an herb, resembling a small log of wood, over the rice didn’t help. To this
day, I’m not sure what it was or what it contributed.
The chicken and potatoes were tender, but aside from a faint
lingering spice, the dish lacked depth. Worse, the rice was overly oily and
failed to develop much of a crust - the very thing claypot rice is celebrated
for!
Life has a funny way of making you feel old. I soon realized
this “ancient” technique is exactly how claypot rice was prepared when I was
younger except with modern toppings now instead of preserved meats, chicken,
and spareribs. What stood out most at Rice and Flame was an intense charcoal
flavour, especially in the chicken dish, which crossed the line into
overpowering for me.
Thankfully, we ended on a high note with the brown sugar
glutinous rice cake ($6.99). The oozing syrup inside helped wash away that
almost butane-like aftertaste. These were excellent - a crisp exterior giving
way to a soft, chewy centre with a rich, molasses-like sweetness. I couldn’t
finish the chicken rice, but these disappeared in a flash.
Rice and Flame nails the look and the service - it’s bright, welcoming, and clearly designed to impress. But when it comes to claypot rice, that comforting crust and deep, nostalgic flavour just didn’t consistently deliver. I’m going to chalk this one up to social media hype.
In a nutshell...
- Must order: brown sugar glutinous rice cake
- Just skip: rainbow braised chicken pot rice
Address: 3290 Midland Avenue
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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