71 Above (Los Angeles)

If you’re looking for skyline views and a vibe, 71Above certainly delivers. Perched on the 71st floor above downtown Los Angeles, the sprawling restaurant feels almost like a labyrinth as staff guide diners through multiple dining areas to their tables.

Just don’t expect things to move quickly. It took a while to receive water, let alone cocktails and the chance to order. Thankfully, once drinks arrived, the evening started looking up, or perhaps down, given the view. The El Segundo ($20) resembles an innocent green juice, making the smoky mezcal and cigar-like finish feel especially unexpected. Meanwhile, the Downtown ($20), made with toasted hazelnut bourbon and cognac, may look approachable but quickly proves otherwise. Both cocktails are deceptively strong in the best way.

Once the order is finally in, the pacing improves significantly. An amuse bouche of roasted carrot tart arrives first, brightened nicely by a slice of kumquat on top.

To tide us over, we added oysters ($21). In hindsight, I should have asked what variety they were serving. Our server mentioned they were sourced from Mexico, and the results were inconsistent. The smaller oyster was crisp and clean, especially with the chili salt, while the larger one tasted noticeably fishy.

Their prix fixe menu ($107 per person) orders dishes from light to hearty under each category. To start my friend and I shared the yellowfin tuna tartare which arrives hidden under a half of avocado. Normally, I like a taro chip or crostini with my tartare, but the dish hardly needed them. Pine nuts mixed into the tartare added plenty of texture alongside the fresh tuna. Sumac, mint, and a faint jalapeño heat kept everything bright and refreshing.

The short rib triangoli pasta was flavourful overall, though slightly sweeter than expected. I just wished each piece contained more beef filling, even if it meant serving fewer of them. Personally, I feel like the dish may work better in a simpler pasta format altogether.

Suspecting the balsamic jus with the grilled centre-cut ribeye would lean tart, I wisely asked for it on the side. My instincts were correct. It’s ideal for diners who enjoy acidity, but I preferred using it sparingly. The steak itself was nicely seared and properly cooked to medium rare, though surprisingly lean for a ribeye. Oddly enough, the standout component ended up being the braised beef croquette, which was rich, meaty, and echoed the same flavour profile found in the pasta.

At one point, staff dropped off bread we hadn’t ordered and frankly didn’t need. It wasn’t until the bill arrived that we noticed the additional $8 charge. Not a major expense, but something diners should be warned about upfront.

There’s a strong selection of desserts. My first instinct was the strawberries and cream, which takes a fairly classic approach with chiffon cake, mixed berries, and plenty of whipped cream. The sesame crumble adds a subtle graham-like nuttiness and welcome texture.

Surprisingly, the chocolate semifreddo ended up being the better dessert despite me not usually gravitating toward chocolate. The semifreddo itself was airy and lightly sweetened, while the green tea ganache, brownie brittle, and fragrant bergamot cream added depth without making things overly heavy.

Despite positioning itself as fine dining, the service feels stretched thin. Staff were friendly throughout, but it was clear servers were juggling too many tables. Empty cocktail glasses went unnoticed, and we had to flag someone down to order wine for the ribeye moments before the mains arrived. To their credit, the wine appeared quickly afterward, but the pacing felt reactive rather than polished. Perhaps the tucked-away back dining section contributes to the issue, as it simply didn’t feel as staffed as the main room.

Ultimately, the food and service are perfectly fine, but neither is what makes 71Above memorable. You come here for the view, and on that front, it delivers.

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: yellowfin tuna tartare
  • Just skip: short rib triangoli pasta

Overall mark - 7 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Los Angeles, USA
 Address: 633 W 5th Street


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Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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Mon Ami Gabi (Las Vegas)

There's really no bad time to visit Mon Ami Gabi. We went for both brunch and dinner, but arriving without a reservation is a terrible idea. During peak dining hours, there was always a wait. Hailing from a Chicago-based chain of French bistros, it's the perfect addition to Paris Las Vegas, exuding the old-world charm of a classic Parisian eatery.

For any Emily in Paris fans, you'll remember all the omelettes featured throughout the early seasons. Naturally, brunch had me ordering the spinach and goat cheese omelette ($26.95). It's stuffed with plenty of melted goat cheese that creates an irresistibly creamy centre, all wrapped in eggs that are fully cooked yet still wonderfully soft.

The seasoning was spot on, and the dish was surprisingly filling thanks to the crispy home fries, a handful of sautéed green beans, and two thick slices of sourdough toast. While I'm not normally a fan of raspberry jam, I thoroughly enjoyed it here as it tasted fresh and wasn't overly sweet. It was a solid start to the day.

I love artichokes but have never attempted to cook one myself since the tough outer leaves and fuzzy centre make them seem like far too much work. So, when I spotted the grilled artichoke ($21.95) on the dinner menu, I couldn't resist.

Served whole, it comes with a card instructing diners to pull off a leaf, dip it into the gribiche sauce, and scrape the tender flesh off with your teeth. I dutifully plucked and scraped away, enjoying the earthy flavour of the fresh artichoke paired with the bright, lemony, savoury sauce. It's a bit of work, but somehow that makes the experience even more satisfying without leaving you overly full.

The trout almondine ($37.95) arrived swimming in brown butter, but thankfully the skin created a natural barrier so I could decide just how much of the sauce I wanted with each bite. The trout was flaky, perfectly seasoned, and cooked just through. After so many rich meals in Las Vegas, it was exactly the lighter dinner I was craving, especially paired with the simply prepared green beans.

Mon Ami Gabi's summer prix fixe menus are also an excellent value, offering three-course lunches and dinners for $40 and $70, respectively. During lunch, you can add a beer for $9, while dinner includes the option of two glasses of wine for $25. Judging by the number of tables enjoying the menu, it's clearly a popular option. With generous portions, classic French comfort food, and front-row views of the Bellagio fountains, it's easy to see why Mon Ami Gabi remains one of the Strip's perennial favourites.

Overall mark - 8 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Las Vegas, USA
 Address: 3655 S Las Vegas Blvd (inside Paris)


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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La Bella Managua (Toronto)



In our search for a post-show dinner near Comedy Bar, we stumbled upon La Bella Managua by chance. Thankfully, we thought to make reservations, because it quickly became clear this is a neighbourhood favourite.

The space isn’t fancy, more diner-like, but the aromas coming from the kitchen are incredible. Watching generous plates pass by only made ordering harder. By the time we decided, I was fully hungry and ready to dig in. Luckily, both the drinks and food arrived quickly.

The mixed ceviche ($18.95) combines shrimp and fish tossed with peppers, onion, and cilantro, served alongside avocado and plantain chips. The acidity is well balanced, so it’s not overly citrusy. That said, I would’ve liked more fish, as the shrimp dominates the dish.

If you’re dining with a group, the yucca mixta ($21.50), typically a main, works perfectly as a shared starter. The fried cheese is reminiscent of mozzarella sticks, but better, with a higher cheese-to-batter ratio. The crispy yucca is addictive, especially dipped into the onion sauce, which adds a refreshing tang. Even the avocado salad was a hit and was as a great way to finish off the plantain chips from the ceviche.

Ordering a Cajun shrimp stir fry ($25.95) at a Nicaraguan restaurant felt strange, but it worked. The dish blends a lightly spiced teriyaki sauce with creamy avocado, giving it a unique, almost Nikkei-style twist. The shrimp were plump and perfectly cooked, and the rice soaked up the sauce without becoming too salty. There’s even a surprising hint of wok hay that could rival some Cantonese spots.

The churrasco ($32.95) is ideal for a solo diner. The beef tenderloin tips were grilled to a perfect medium rare. While the meat itself is fairly mild, the thick chimichurri adds plenty of flavour. Paired with roasted garlic mashed potatoes and a generous serving of vegetables, it’s a well-balanced plate.

Whatever you do, don’t skip dessert. La Bella’s flan Napolitano ($7.95) is fantastic, with a custard that’s firm enough to hold its shape yet still smooth and creamy. The caramel is light and fluid, adding sweetness without becoming sticky. Flan fans you better fly over to try this.

The three milk cake ($8.50) is equally impressive. It’s fully soaked, rich, and indulgent without crossing into overly sweet territory. I genuinely couldn’t decide which dessert I preferred. Both are worth ordering.

As mentioned, reservations are highly recommended. Despite how busy it gets, the small team runs the dining room with impressive efficiency, making sure guests are well taken care of. With generous portions, affordable pricing, and vibrant flavours, La Bella Managua feels like a rare find. As my first experience with Nicaraguan cuisine, I was struck by the balance of hearty staples like rice, plantain, and yucca with fresh vegetables and proteins, all shaped by Mexican and Spanish influences with its own distinct flair.

La Bella Managua delivers a lively, flavour-packed experience without the frills. Between the generous portions, standout desserts, and efficient service, it’s an easy recommendation, especially if you’re catching a show nearby.

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: flan, three milk cake
  • Just skip: nothing

Overall mark - 9 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 872 Bloor St West


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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Matu (Los Angeles)

Matu is a dream for meat lovers, with a menu centred entirely around Australian wagyu. Nothing showcases that commitment better than the Matu dinner ($87 per person; minimum 2 persons), a multi-course meal that highlights different cuts of the cow in every single dish.

Things begin with a 24-hour bone broth shooter, looking like a glass of gravy but tasting like concentrated umami. Rich, warm, and deeply comforting, it’s remarkable how delicious it is despite containing only broth.

The steak tartare follows with freshly chopped beef, egg yolk, and what the menu describes as a “Japanese accent,” possibly togarashi. Whatever the seasoning blend is, it works beautifully. The tartare is incredibly flavourful despite its minimalist presentation. Thin, lightly toasted crostini accompany it without overpowering the beef, though I did ask for extra slices just to finish every bite.

The eight-hour braised beef cheek was one of my favourite courses. So tender and moist that you could practically eat it with a spoon, the richness is balanced by a silky celeriac purée that ties everything together beautifully. It’s the kind of dish that immediately makes you want another serving.

Even their ‘47’ salad leans heavily into the restaurant’s beef-first philosophy, featuring more steak than greens. The 3-ounce centre-cut filet was impressively tender for such a lean cut, and although it arrived rarer than I’d typically order, it worked perfectly. At Matu, diners aren’t asked how they’d like their steak cooked. The kitchen prepares it to the chef’s specifications, trusting the quality of the beef and their technique.

As for the romaine leaves underneath, they’re coated in a signature dressing that tastes remarkably similar to Caesar, despite being made without dairy or eggs, then finished with a generous showering of Parmigiano.

After all that beef, you’d think sharing a 12-ounce ribeye would feel excessive. Somehow, it didn’t. The steak is prepared simply, allowing the quality of the wagyu to speak for itself, with crispy grilled broccolini providing a garlicky contrast alongside it. A small dish of salt is presented at the beginning of the meal, though Matu intentionally keeps the seasoning restrained. Personally, I appreciated the lighter touch and never felt the need to add more.

Dessert arrives in the form of Scott’s flourless chocolate cake ($12), dense and rich without being overly sweet beyond a dusting of powdered sugar. After an entire menu devoted to beef, I almost found myself jokingly wondering whether wagyu somehow made its way into dessert too.

With its dark wood interiors, Matu certainly looks like a steakhouse, but the lively playlist and relaxed atmosphere keep it from feeling stuffy. You could comfortably walk in wearing a suit or a T-shirt and feel equally welcome. The staff are friendly and attentive, and the meal unfolds at a well-paced rhythm from start to finish. All hail the wagyu.

Overall mark - 8 out of 10



How To Find Them
 Location: Los Angeles, USA
 Address: 239 S Beverly Drive


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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Le Deck Wine Bar (Port Carling)


Quietly opening this month, Le Deck Wine Bar is situated amongst the busy patios of Tulo's and Turtle Jack's. Compared to the two, Le Deck is absolutely zen, with its whitewashed décor and no music blaring. Tucked into the bottom-right corner of the complex, the wine bar feels removed from the hustle and bustle, separated by shops and away from the heavy foot traffic.


The wine list is curated through Gibson Family Wines, featuring bottles from France and Italy produced by small and organic wineries. These aren't wines you'll typically find at the LCBO. Eleven are available by the glass in three-ounce ($9-$26) and six-ounce ($18-$52) pours, making it easy to sample a few. Many more are offered by the bottle, ranging from $80 to $1,200. Indeed, Le Deck isn't where you'll find budget wines.

Stopping in for a glass, the 2022 Domaine Regnard Aligoté ($28 for 6 oz.) was recommended as an easy-drinking white. Served nicely chilled without being overly cold, it was crisp, mellow, and restrained on its own but paired beautifully with the charcuterie.

You're not coming to Le Deck for a filling meal. The menu consists of four charcuterie boards ($32-$95) along with light snacks like roasted nuts ($12-$14), chips ($6), and mixed olives ($8). Despite there not being a Spanish wine on the menu, we opted for the Spanish board ($52) because it promised Serrano ham. The biggest surprise was how much I enjoyed the chorizo. It was flavourful with just a hint of heat, yet never overpowering. It's not normally a meat I enjoy on its own, but this was delicious. Turns out everything is sourced from Toronto's Cheese Boutique, the mecca of charcuterie.

Rounding out the board were two cheeses (olive Manchego and a six-month-aged Manchego), crackers, crostini, a few gherkins, and a lovely fig jam that wasn't overly thick or sweet. It was a great choice. Our server explained that the Italian board leans towards salami and Parmesan, while the French board features softer cheeses.

Admittedly, a glass of wine and a nibble isn't inexpensive at Le Deck. But you're paying for the premium Port Carling location and its tranquil setting. Being tucked into the shade also creates a lovely cross breeze, so even during the July heat wave we stayed pleasantly cool.

And thanks to its location beside the public docks, you can arrive by car or by boat. If that's not quintessential Muskoka, what is? Situated in the heart of Port Carling's main strip, there are plenty of shops and attractions nearby (I highly recommend pursuing the Port Carling Locks) to explore after to work off all that wine.

Le Deck isn't trying to be the liveliest patio in Port Carling. Instead, it offers something increasingly rare: a quiet place to slow down with a thoughtfully curated glass of wine. Sometimes that's exactly what cottage country calls for.


How To Find Them
 Location: Port Carling, Canada
 Address: 2 James Bartleman Way


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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TL Insider Event: Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse (Toronto)

Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse’s new home at CIBC Square is bright and polished compared to its former digs. The gleaming dining room still includes the signature piano bar, complete with live music nightly from 6 to 11 pm, but the larger footprint sacrifices the intimacy the original space had. Fortunately, Chef Danny, who led the kitchen for 16 years at the previous location, remains at the helm.

After hearing about some early growing pains, I purposely waited before visiting. But when Toronto Life hosted a special TL Insider dinner ($225 per person, inclusive of taxes and gratuities), curiosity won out. The prices listed below reflect the regular menu, though portions at the event were likely smaller than standard service.

The evening began with a beef skewer ($31), featuring cubes of barbecued beef glazed in teriyaki and topped with plenty of chives. Unfortunately, consistency was an issue. Other guests raved about how tender theirs were, while mine arrived overcooked. It wasn’t inedible, but it certainly wasn’t tender.

One of the restaurant’s newer additions is its aged fish program, so I was eager to try the dry-aged salmon ($33). Listed as a “crudo,” I expected delicate slices in a citrusy sauce, but it arrived as another skewer. The texture was undeniably smooth, with the dry aging removing any chewiness, but the salmon also developed a gaminess that lingered unpleasantly. A marinade or thinner slicing might help balance things out.

I’m glad their signature Caesar salad ($24) remains excellent. It’s beautifully balanced with acidity, savouriness, and thoughtful touches like buttery breadcrumbs and bacon bits that aren’t rock hard. It’s still one of the better Caesars in the city, though tableside preparation now costs an additional $10.

Fans of tartare will likely appreciate the beef tartare ($41), which is prepared traditionally with minimally dressed hand-cut beef. Personally, I wanted more contrast in texture or flavour, though tartare has never been my go-to dish. I did appreciate the accompaniments of buttery crostini and gem lettuce leaves, which offered a lighter way to enjoy it.

And for fans like me, don't worry their cheese bread puffs still make an appearance (along with their take home chocolate muffins).

What continues to shine at Jacobs is the steak itself. The 40-day dry aged striploin was cooked beautifully, developing a crust that locked in the juices while maintaining tenderness despite being a leaner cut. The seasoning is more restrained, which allowed the volcanic sea salt and chimichurri on the side to actually enhance the beef rather than overwhelm it.

The pecorino broccolini ($22) had me almost finishing off the plate and is such a nice accompaniment with the rich beef. The only disappointment was the duck fat fries ($21), which arrived lukewarm and slightly stale, likely a casualty of serving a packed dining room.

Dessert ended the evening on a high note. The crème brulee ($21) was fantastic with visible vanilla bean specks throughout the silky custard. The sugar topping was thin and delicate, avoiding that overly sweet crunch some versions suffer from. Served alongside a sizeable chocolate biscotti and a fragrant orange shortbread cookie, it’s easily large enough to share.

With the expanded dining room, the front-of-house team has clearly grown as well. The staff is younger and fresher-faced, so any old-school steakhouse stuffiness has largely disappeared. More importantly, the service remains polished and attentive, and we were well taken care of throughout the evening.

Jacobs & Co.’s new location may have lost some of the cozy charm of the original, but it still nails the things that matter most: great steak and attentive service. Not every dish is a hit just yet, but the restaurant still feels every bit like the Toronto steakhouse people know and love.

Overall mark - 8 out of 10
Want to become a Toronto Life Member? If this event sounded great, don't miss out on the fun. Toronto Life is providing Gastro World readers a $25 off discount code to become a member!

Just use discount code GASTROWORLD at the Toronto Life Member checkout and the discount will be automatically applied.

How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 81 Bay Street, 4th floor

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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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The Queen Seafood Cuisine 皇后臻品 (Toronto)

While The Queen Seafood Cuisine’s website highlights lavish set menus featuring jumbo lobster and king crab, they also offer less extravagant options. As a guest at a family celebration, I didn’t catch the exact price of our menu, but judging from similar ones online, I’d estimate it around $798. Before committing to a $1,000+ spread, it’s worth visiting to explore the more accessible offerings.

The roasted suckling pig with jellyfish is a dish of contrasts: warm, rich pork paired with cool, crunchy jellyfish. It may have been my portion, but the pork leaned slightly fatty. Still, it was moist with a delicate, crispy skin.

Instead of the usual deep-fried crab claw, Queen’s serves a scallop with shrimp paste. It’s easier to eat with a knife and fork, and while the sauce softens the crisp exterior, it adds a savoury depth without overwhelming the seafood.

The crispy salted egg yolk prawns were impressively large and well cooked. I don’t usually gravitate towards salted egg yolk, finding it heavy, but here it added a pleasant richness. Since the coating sits on the shell, it’s easy to control how much you get. I also appreciated the inclusion of vegetables throughout the meal. The scallops came with gai lan, while the prawns were paired with broccoli, helping balance out the richness.

Swapping out the usual shark fin soup, the bird’s nest soup with minced chicken and egg white was a welcomed change. The broth was thick and silky, but the minced chicken added some much-needed texture.

The braised abalone with mushroom and snow pea tips was well executed. The abalone was properly rehydrated, tender, and infused with the braising liquid, while the snow pea tips were kept simple to provide a fresh contrast.

Amid the celebration, I forgot to take a photo of the crispy roasted pigeon, which comes three to an order. There was plenty to go around. The skin was glossy and crisp, but the meat had a noticeably gamier flavour than expected, making it more of an acquired taste.

The double stir-fried lobster with Maggi sauce was handled with restraint. The seasoning added flavour without becoming sticky or overpowering. Unfortunately, the lobster itself was slightly overcooked, with the meat beginning to pull away from the shell rather than staying plump.

The steamed twin fish was perfectly cooked, so it was flaky but breaks apart. It’s just a shame that the scales weren’t cleaned properly so you had to remove the skin to make it edible.

Being a sister restaurant to Congee Queen, the portions here are generous. Even after most of us had large servings, there were still plenty of leftovers. The pork and seafood fried rice wrapped in lotus leaf was the stronger of the two carb dishes, packed with ingredients, well seasoned, and lightly fragrant from the leaf.

The braised e-fu noodles, however, were underwhelming. They lacked both flavour and substance. Typically, you’d expect mushrooms and chives, but here there were only a few scattered scallions and minimal mushroom. The result was dry, slightly sticky, and bland.

Dessert helped recover the meal. The hot red bean soup was consistently sweet, perhaps a touch too sugary for some, but it held its own after the heavier dishes. The almond cookies were a highlight - flaky, delicate, and fragrant. If you enjoy shortbread, these will be a hit, but even I appreciated them. The mango pudding was pleasant and sweet, though standard.

They’re known for their private dining rooms, which come with an additional $180 fee, but also a higher level of service. We had a dedicated staff member who regularly checked on tea and water, plated dishes for us, and handled leftovers without prompting. For a celebration, the pacing felt relaxed rather than rushed, though the meal stretched to about three and a half hours, so plan accordingly if dining with children or anyone short on patience.

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: bird's nest soup with minced chicken and egg white, scallop with shrimp paste
  • Just skip: braised e-fu noodles

Overall mark - 7 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 900 Don Mills Road


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

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