Pairing wine with Chinese food can be difficult … there are
just so many flavours, ingredients and textures to content with. At banquet
dinners, when we do have wine, it generally consists of an overly sweet white
(yuck) and a robust red (delicious, but drowns out the delicate steamed seafood
dishes).
Hence, when I was invited to Taste of China to sample
bottles of Vinho Verde, it seemed like the ideal opportunity to learn from the
experts. A product of Portugal, Vinho Verde refers to the region the wine is
produced in. It’s a fragmented area with more than 30,000 growers and due to
low yields tend to use cooperative wineries to produce the wine.
Although the region produces red, white or rosé, we samples
three whites that evening – it’s mineral properties and light taste is believed
to be more versatile in holding up against Asian cuisine.
The Quinta Da Aveleda Vinho Verde 2013 ($10.95 at the LCBO)
was the driest and tasted like it’d have the highest alcohol content. With
green apple elements, it had the acidicness needed to compliment the tart red
vinegar accompanying the deep fried shrimp balls ($15.50).
The shrimp balls itself arrived piping hot with a light
moist centre. It’s essentially the shrimp paste you’d normally find around deep
fried crab claws. There was perhaps a bit too much flour used in the appetizer,
but you could still taste the shrimp’s flavours.
Moving into the Vintages selection, the Muralhas De Monção
Vinho Verde 2014 ($15.95 at the LCBO) had a much smoother finish. Of the three,
the hint of spritz within the wine was most prevalent. This sparkling nature historically
stemmed from the fermentation process and was actually considered a blemish to
the wine. But, it became a characteristic that consumers like about Vinho
Verdes so some vintners continue the tradition by adding artificial carbonation
into the bottles.
A vegetable vermicelli with bean sprouts and Chinese
mushrooms (not on menu) and green sea bass done 2-ways (seasonally priced,
believe was $16.99) was paired with this wine. Both were different dishes but
tended to be more neutral against the Muralhas.
The vermicelli was served on a sizzling plate helping it to
retain its heat. A layer of onions separated the thin delicate noodles from the
plate adding a sweetness to the salty noodles.
The sea bass’s filets were removed and pan fried while the
bones deep fried until crisp. The filets were cooked well retaining a meaty
tenderness in texture. However, the bones didn’t lend itself to being fried
compared to a flounder: they are too thick and there wasn’t enough cartilage on
it to add interest.
Lastly, a bottle of CDV Brazão Colheita Seleccionada Arinto
2013 ($13.75 at the LCBO) that was the sweetest (although compared to other
varietals is still relatively dry). For a lighter white, it had a more
substantial feel to it, lending itself to being paired with the heaviest dish –
stir fried filet mignon ($13). Of all the bottles served, I would consider it
the best to drink by itself.
The filet mignon’s tenderness varies: one piece was too
difficult to bite through while another gave absolutely no resistance. The sauce
was sweet and spicy; enough heat to sting but you won’t be reaching for water.
The broccoli lining the plate was fresh and crispy, but unfortunately didn’t
pair with the wine, causing it to have a bitter finish.
Overall, I welcomed the introduction to a new region of
wines I previously had never heard of. Vinhos Verdes are light and fresh with
slight fruity and floral aromas without being overpowering. Although I still
find it hard to have a one-wine-fits-all pairing with Chinese food, the wine is
definitely a contender to many of the deep fried dishes as the wine’s acid
helps to balance out the oiliness of the dishes.
Kevin Fox, producer of the show Wine Portfolio, said it
best: if you like it, than drink it! Although there are helpful suggestions as
to what pairs best, like all food and drink, taste is subjective. Don’t over
think things and just try a bunch of wines until you find what suits your
taste.
After this event, I came to the realization that Chinese
restaurants are missing a huge opportunity – to offer drink pairings with
tasting menus. It’s certainly something I’d be interested in trying! After all,
there are so many dishes that would work so well with wine … Chinese
restaurants, who will take up this challenge?
How To Find Them
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