Se7en Oceans is best described as a collection of eateries
within the Europa Passage. There’s a sushi bar, casual bistro, Michelin-starred
restaurant and even a cigar lounge located in a cluster on the upper floor
level. This review will be about their fine dining restaurant, set in an
enclosed glass dining room with a wall of windows overlooking the Alster Lake.
As the glass door shuts, a quiet serenity envelopes me,
calming the bustling city life I just encountered from the Hamburg streets and
shopping mall. Seated by the window, even during the rainy day, this Lake view
and people watching vantage point was a delight.
With a name like Se7en Oceans, it shouldn’t be a surprise
that their menu is heavily seafood based. We ordered the menu for two people
(€58 per person) featuring dishes made with a whole Breton sole.
Light bites started off the meal with shrimp chips adorned
with tiny prawns and edible florals. Beside the chips was a savoury creamy hors
d’oeuvres that I’ve forgotten, which in general was my impression of the amuse
bouche: fine but forgettable.
A cracker topped with a savoury mousse and carrot gelee was
better. Except, while we were eating, the whole time we were fixated on the sardine
can accompanying it. Our waitress noted it was “not for eating now” and opening
the lid revealed a can of rocks. After a bit, we realized it was just a paper
weight for the note, which specifies that Se7en Oceans undercooks their fish so
it’s “glassy”.
Personally, I felt the note was unnecessary as most diners
eating in a reputable seafood restaurant would expect this and just served to confuse
us.
The following appetizer was an interesting combination of poached
egg, crispy chicken skin, mustard seeds and savoury gelatin. It is light but
has powerful flavour and textural elements from the chicken skin cracklings and
plump juicy mustard seeds.
Their bread is warm and delicious – I chose a pillowy cheese
brioche and a rustic potato bun. But, it’s the accompanying whipped cheese with
flowers that’s unique and beautiful. Although, I’ll admit, it’s a tad tangy and
floral for the breads I chose and ate them plain instead.
Our first course finally featured the Breton sole. The whole
fish was brought out after ordering as evidence of what was about to be served
(without its head and tail for those who are squeamish). The fish was
wonderfully cooked with a crispy spiced crust and juicy flaky meat. The neutral
white fish was paired with luscious barely cooked scallops, fresh vegetables
(zucchini and green beans), a strange jello-textured lemon rice gnocchi and
crispy rice kernels. Overall, a delicious dish with a light ponzu jus that went well with
everything.
Between the two fish courses was an inventive sorbet. Unlike
normal palette cleansers, this one was huge and could have easily been dessert.
The tangy mango sorbet sat on top of copious amounts of fluffy coconut cream to
resemble an egg. I loved the soufflé-like slightly salty whipped coconut
mousse, which went wonderfully with the crunchy grain bits.
Even though the fish was similarly prepared in the next
course, it was much earthier. There were carrot and asparagus purees, citrus
elements and a curry flavour mixed into everything. Personally, I enjoyed the
first representation of the fish better, but I see the progression of the
courses as this second dish was richer and heavier.
We skipped dessert knowing there was bound to be petit fours.
Luckily, we weren’t disappointed as a platter of delicate raspberry macarons,
soft cakey madeleines, a dense rich brownie and creamy dark chocolate truffles
arrived.
For a Michelin-starred restaurant, prices are reasonable,
albeit bottled water (€9.80) is where the mark-up occurs. Liquor is
surprisingly more cost efficient - a bottle of Herforder pilsner for €3.90 or
glass of Hofgarten Grauburgunder wine for €10.50.
Se7en Oceans was awarded its Michelin star in 2012. From my
experience, Chef Frédéric Morel certainly knows how to cook fish, it was
prepared perfectly: a golden well-seasoned crust and moist meaty interior. So,
if you think Germany is all about meat and potatoes, think again. Places like
Se7en Oceans can easily dispel that myth, if you just give them the chance.
How To Find Them
Location: Hamburg, Germany
Address: Ballindaam 40
Address: Ballindaam 40
Website: http://www.se7en-oceans.de/
Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
