The younger me tuned into the Food Network and consumed
shows such as Pitchin’ In, which enlightened me about the many food purveyors
throughout Canada – not the constant barrage of “competitions” that now plagues
the station. With every episode, I started liking Chef Lynn Crawford’s laid
back funny attitude even more; I want to travel with her and eat her creations
… oh why can’t we be friends?
As luck with have it, Torontonians can experience her
cooking at Ruby Watchco. Together with Chef Lora Kirk, they create a menu that
changes daily and is truly a tasting menu ($54) as there’s only one option –
take it or leave it. With the appetizer and main course, the restaurant does
offer add on items (a chicken liver parfait and bacon sliders, during our
visit), so if you truly detest one of the dishes, you can leave more for your
guests and buy something else. However,
if you’re not a picky eater or tend to be indecisive and agonize over all the
choices, this is the restaurant for you.
Although a wine pairing is available ($39), if you’re
visiting on Tuesday to Friday before 7pm, there are drink specials available
including $5 cocktails, $5 beers, and $8 wine (including a bubbly option)! Cheers
to that!
With the exception of dessert, the dinner’s served family
style and on this evening consisted of a large bowl of Ruby’s Greek style salad.
For me, a salad seems like such a boring start. But, the thick creamy pickled
jalapeno aioli on the bottom, turned the typical greens, tomatoes, olives and
feta into a dish that I had seconds of. After demolishing the hot salty cheddar
buttermilk biscuit, of course. Where are your priorities?
Make sure to leave room for the main, the thick piece of Fogo
Island cod was cooked perfectly, remaining moist and flaky with the requisite
crispy skin. The slightly spicy and refreshing green onion relish helped add tons
of flavour to the neutral fish. So good, I bet it’s a main that even people who
normally don’t like fish would enjoy.
I commend the kitchen for their perfect timing on the
vegetables: the sweet heirloom carrots just starting to soften and meld into
the aromatic leek marmalade; the lightly charred broccoli incorporating a bit
of smoke, yet still fresh and crunchy; and the fingerling potatoes cooked
through but firm enough that the starchy creaminess remains.
This evening, Ruby Watchco showcased the Big Brother cheese
from Lancaster Ontario’s Glengarry Fine Cheese. A firmer varietal, it was
accurately described as a cross between parmesan and cheddar. The Big Brother
is relatively mild and reminds me of a younger Beemster – a semi-firm texture,
slight formation of crystals, and smooth finish.
After dining at Ruby Watchco, I can see how Chef Lynn’s
creations on air translates into the restaurant. The menu sticks with the tried
and true favourites – a chocolate cake to finish – and elevates the recipe with
tasty, non-fussy finishes.
Dark chocolate and espresso is incorporated into the cake’s
batter to balance out the caramel sauce and sweet meringue topping. As you
enjoy the moist cake, there are so many flavours and textures that start to
peek through … and just like that, the dessert’s done.
Ruby Watchco gets polarizing reviews - you either love it or
hate it. Not knowing what you’ll be eating until the week of is either exciting
or an annoyance; and being served family style either means getting more of
what you like or more work. It’s not a restaurant for everybody.
For me, I have
an opened mind and opened stomach, hence, it’s a meal I thoroughly enjoyed. Now
Chef Lynn: can we be friends?
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 730 Queen Street East
Address: 730 Queen Street East
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Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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