While Bacchanal translates to “an occasion of wild and
drunken revelry”, the actual restaurant is calming - in a chic French manner.
On my weekend visit, diners were sipping on wine and devouring sauce-laced
dishes, yet remained in their seats. I guess the wine induced dancing-on-tables
happen afterwards.
I was quite happy to tuck into the warm crispy baguette; their
house-made red fife wheat loaf was legitimately delicious and full flavoured.
What was left of the bread was great for dipping into the
paprika and sherry vinegar broth from the moules
escabèche ($10). Served cold,
the mussels are plump from the garlicky sauce it soaks in.
Oh the heavenly gnocchi Parisienne au sarrasin ($15), it’s as if the French borrowed the Italian
potato pasta and the South’s mac ‘n’ cheese and turned into a molten love
child. The creamy comté sauce smelled fantastic and the
cheese was strong enough without overpowering the gnocchi. Don’t leave without
trying it.
Steak and duck are two dishes I attempt to try at every
French restaurant; my benchmark dishes for judging the mains at the place.
Bacchanal’s steak frites ($24) were respectable, the 8oz flatiron steak done
medium rare and relatively tender for the thick slice. Thankfully, the fries were
actually thin (thick chip cuts aren’t meant for steak frites – leave that for
the fried fish) and when hot ever so slightly melts the aioli.
While the Magret de
canard ($31) was cooked the requisite rare doneness and the rendered skin
crispy, the duck breast could have been cut thinner so wouldn’t be as chewy.
The plum glaze was on point to give the dish that traditional sweet and savoury
flavour, and with a smear of the whipped foie gras heightened the taste even
more.
Surprisingly, it was the sablefish sauce Gamay ($37) I liked
the most. Not for the actual fish (properly flakey but under seasoned), rather
it was the beluga lentil that impressed having soaked in the cooking liquid. Plus,
the leafy colourful kale and trumpet mushrooms did make for an impressive
looking presentation.
Bacchanal’s baba au
rhum ($15) was an eye catching take on the classic dessert, thanks to the
carefully piped white chocolate whipped cream. While the cake was delicious
(the hint of spice enjoyable), the rum syrup needed more alcohol … after all,
how will the restaurant live up to its name of creating wild and drunken occasions?
French restaurants seem to be the choice du jour for openings
and Bacchanal is joining the masses. With more choices comes tougher
competition… Bacchanal creates respectable dishes, but not good enough to make
me want to travel out of my way for.
Overall mark - 7 out of 10
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 60 Sudbury Street
Address: 60 Sudbury Street
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Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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