Previous
rice noodle rolls and congee restaurants I’ve visited have been cozy
establishments where tables are practically communal and anyone who’s
claustrophobic should avoid them at all costs. Hence, stepping into LiWan Kitchen
was a pleasant surprise. Despite the narrow store front, the dining room
stretches far into the building and tables are spaciously placed apart. As a
bonus, the air conditioning is more than adequate to hold off the heat sweats
from eating congee in the summer.
With a
full page of rice noodle roll options, we knew this would be a dish that is a
must order. Having sampled three, they were all adequately filled and although
the wrapper wasn’t as thin as some other specialty restaurants, they were still
lighter than what’s generally found at dim sum.
The
shrimp and snow pea leaves ($4.50) are evenly distributed amongst each roll
with two large shrimp in each and half lined with the slightly crunchy leafy
vegetable, which adds colour and a herby taste against the seafood. A
vegetarian version replaces the shrimp with prince mushroom slivers ($4.50). While the menu
describes it as multi-mushroom with snow pea leaves, there’s really only one
fungi, but plenty of it is included in the roll. Plus, being a meatier mushroom
with a slight bite, the prince mushroom contrasts nicely against the silky rice
wrapper.
How good
the dough stick in plain rice noodle roll ($4.50) is depends on the dough
fritter. At LiWan Kitchen, it’s warm, very soft, and has a thin crispy crust… a
good start to the dish. You’ll just need to ask for more sauce as the little
dish they provide is comical (don’t worry, you’ll receive more for free).
I will
never look at vegetarian congee the same again, the chestnut and pumpkin ($4)
combines the stewed rice with puréed chestnut and pumpkin to give it a vibrant
yellow colour and a light earthy finish. Corn kernels are thrown in for a bit
of texture, but you will need to add salt as it’s fairly neutral on arrival.
In
general, LiWan Kitchen keeps their dishes under seasoned, providing salt at
each table so guests can add more. The fried rice with egg, BBQ pork, and
shrimp ($9.99; also called yeung chow fried
rice) also needed a liberal sprinkling for flavour but was nicely combined with
plenty of ingredients. It’s definitely a healthier version of the dish as it’s
also less oily than competitors.
If you
don’t mind a 20-minute wait, their casserole rice dishes are even better. The
pork pancake and BBQ pork ($8.99) topping the rice is fairly run-of-the-mill, but the golden rice crust on the
bottom is beautifully crispy – the best part of casserole pot rice, in my
opinion. It comes with bowl of bone broth with chayote, hence can be a filling
meal for one.
Having
visited LiWan Kitchen on multiple occasions their friendly and efficient
service keeps me going back. Surprisingly, customers can even request a
complimentary Chinese newspaper at the end of the meal, despite their
reasonable prices. I’m just glad I can enjoy these comfort dishes without being
squished and leaving in a pool of sweat.
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 4271 Sheppard Avenue East
Address: 4271 Sheppard Avenue East
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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
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