Mamajoun specializes in lahmajoun pizzas and wraps –
try saying that three times fast. In the west, we may refer to lahmajoun as
an Armenian pizza or flatbread. It’s topped with any ingredient, but traditionally
tends to be a beef spread made with tomatoes, spices, and herbs.
The restaurant starts with fresh dough that’s flattened into
an ultra-thin base before topping it and then cooking in a high heat oven. With “Pizzeria” being a part of their name, I
opted to try two of the pies. First, one that best matched my preference, an Italian
sausage and peppers pizza ($15.50 for a small) that’s not traditional but sounds
tasty.
Crispy around the edges and soft but not soggy in the
centre, this is a thin crust lover’s dream. The toppings are spread very close
to the edges so that each bite is filled with cheese, tomato sauce, peppers,
onion, and rounds of meat. With so many ingredients it could have easily become
too salty. Yet, it wasn’t. Flavourful, yes, but not too overpowering. This was
a good start.
Their Armenian pizza ($15.50 for a small) was punchier, the tomato
and cheese base also enhanced with a spiced beef spread before being topped
with soujouk (a drier and more flavourful sausage) and onions. While I
enjoyed the hints of spice on the pizza, I also found it was too soft: the bottom
of the crust not toasted enough and aside from the onions nothing to give it
texture. It’s also a heavier feeling pizza due to the double meat and cheese. Slivers
of bell peppers and mint would be a great addition to this pie.
Where the restaurant stands out is their jouns and at
about $5 a wrap, they are also a great value. The Papajoun ($5.50) is like the
Armenian pizza, the dough topped with red pepper paste, ground beef, onions,
and garlic - it’s spicier but not quite as heavy as there isn’t any cheese.
To the Papajoun I added chicken (supplemental $4), which
gave the wrap more heft without additional flavour. Why I prefer a joun is
the ability to customize without additional costs. Some pickled turnips, mint,
and tomatoes added a freshness to the wrap. While there was already some heat in
the red pepper paste, it could have been spicier for me. Be sure to ask for
pickled jalapenos or hot banana peppers if you like it spicy.
If you’re lucky, some mante may be available as an
off-menu item. Owner Mihran stresses that these are best eaten right away as
what makes them delicious are the dumpling’s crispy edges. Armenian mante are
so much better than the Turkish and Lebanese versions I’ve tried in the past. The
thin dough and crunchy toasted bits are certainly a draw, but I loved that they
sit in a savoury tomato and chicken stock sauce with only a dollop of yoghurt. In
the past, I often didn’t like the dish because there was just too much yoghurt
that it felt like I was eating a yoghurt bowl with bites of meaty dough –
sounds gross, huh?
For a sweet ending, the rice pudding ($2.50) was beckoning. The
dessert was creamy and thick, adequately sweet, and brimming with cinnamon
notes. The cup-sized portion would be a filling ending for one or just enough
to share amongst two people.
Mamajoun also operates a small store selling preserves, sauces,
and juices. With so many options to choose from, a tasting session would be a
great way to feature the items if the restaurant ever wants to branch into
special events.
As for now, there’s a host of jerky available to sample
while you’re waiting the 10-20 minutes for your order to be ready. These are
also freshly made with minimal preservatives, so it’s recommended that they’re
stored in a fridge.
If it weren’t for Mamajoun being featured in a Yelp event, I
would have never noticed and stopped at the plaza it is located in. Such a
shame, as I would have never met the passionate and friendly people operating
the restaurant (and jerky business), tasted a filling and flavourful joun, and
had mante that I’d order again.
Overall mark - 7 out of 10
Address: 209 Ellesmere Road
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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