A lot has changed since I first visited Black + Blue during
their opening month in 2023. Toronto’s Financial District was booming on a
Tuesday evening; the restaurant’s dining room, upstairs, and patio was filled.
It’s summer and people were out and wanting to spend.
I was back for a special TL Insider wagyu tasting menu
($125 for 4 courses, side dishes, and three drinks). This post includes
regular menu prices beside dishes, where available. Maybe because the
dinner was a Toronto Life event and preceded by Executive chef Morgan Bellis,
but the food was delicious.
To begin, the special menu simplified the carpaccio ($26)
to a “Harry’s Bar” version. The thinly sliced wagyu was simply adorned with
a mustard aioli, pepper, and shaved parmesan. Gone were the pickled shimeji mushrooms,
crispy shallots, and fried capers that were too salty and overpowering.
Instead, I could taste the meat’s sweetness and the seasoning was enough to
flavour and the carpaccio and enjoy it without bread. Chef Bellis
should consider adding this version to their menu.
The prized beef was also used in the Japanese A5 wagyu
roll ($34), stuffed inside and also as slices on top. Combined with avocado,
cucumber, and crispy shallots, the roll was tasty on its own, with a bit of the
gochujang (?) glaze, or soy sauce. Although, it would be even better
with an acid element… perhaps the pickled shimeji mushroom?
As the trio of 3oz striploins arrived at the table, diners
started to buzz with excitement. And to my surprise, the medium rare doneness was
what I generally expect (pink with a slightly rare centre). Has Black + Blue received
enough complaints and send backs that they cooked their steaks longer to meet
the Torontonian palette?
We’re advised to start with the Canadian beef before moving
onto the Australian and ending with the Japanese. In fairness, the Canadian
contender was not wagyu, rather a prime striploin ($84 for a 14 oz)
hence it’s understandable why it’s leaner than the other two pieces. Additionally,
it was cooked more, which also didn’t help with the beef’s tenderness. Still,
if I had received this as a striploin (and not expecting wagyu), I wouldn’t
complain.
Black + Blue should consider adding the Australian wagyu
striploin to the menu - it was my preference for the evening. It was well
marbled, juicy and flavourful without being overwhelming. You could easily go
through 3oz of this without feeling glutinous.
Meanwhile, the Japanese A5 wagyu striploin ($31 per oz)
was just too fatty. The outer seared sections were rich like butter, but once
you cut into the centre it’s like having chewy blubber. The striploin needed to
be cut into strips or smaller cubes and seared off to give it a caramelized
crust. As it stood, it’s like having bacon that’s not crispy enough.
To accompany the steaks, we were treated to a trio of
sauces ($15) that I found weren’t required (béarnaise, truffle jus,
gochujang mayo) and a host of side dishes. Of the sides, the wagyu fried
rice ($32) is normally found on their menu. The Japanese A5 wagyu toned
done as it’s cut into small pieces, its fat mixing into the rice and egg. If
that weren’t flavourful enough, it’s further enhanced with garlic, scallions,
and chili oil for heat. I could easily visit just to have a bowl of the rice
with a side salad.
To conclude, a special dessert created by their pastry chef from
Vancouver. The mandarin orange, made with crème anglaise and
white chocolate, was filled with a refreshing clementine jam and really looked
like a fruit, dimples and all. Sitting on sponge cake and a toffee cracker, all
the elements paired nicely forming a great bright ending to the heavy meal.
In a nutshell...
- Must order: Australian wagyu (if available), wagyu fried rice
- Just skip: Japanese A5 wagyu (unless you specifically request it be cooked in strips)
Want to become a Toronto Life Member? If this event sounded great, don't miss out on the fun. Toronto Life is providing Gastro World readers a $25 off discount code to become a member!Email me if you join and let me know the next event you'll be attending. Maybe we can meet in person!
Just use discount code GASTROWORLD at the Toronto Life Member checkout and the discount will be automatically applied.
Address: 130 King Street West
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Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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