As I write this post on Tanto, I can’t help but think about my experience at Constantine ... two similar restaurants: both newcomers in Toronto and Argentinian “inspired” so not necessarily authentic. My meals even followed comparable patterns of sitting at the Chef’s table and a dinner comprised of dishes made on their wood burning grill. Hence, although each post stands alone, I can’t help but draw comparisons between the meals.
Although
both were enjoyable, Tanto elevated the experience by simply tweaking the way
they did things. To begin, the made sitting at the “Chef’s table” matter. It
sounds fancy, but really it merely means you’re sitting at a “bar” area
overlooking the kitchen. There’s no special menu and you can order whatever you
like. At Tanto, Chef Julian Iliopolus interacted with the diners – at the
beginning, to answer any questions about the menu; and with each course, coming by
to get our thoughts and answer any other queries that may arise. How else would
I have known that Tanto’s leg of jamón
ibérico wholesaled for $1,100? A very different experience than
Constantine.
Tanto
also commands their parilla, the wood
burning grill, much better. Both are set-up similarly, the grill surface on a
lever system so it can be raised and lowered. It’s how the wood is placed that
differs. At Tanto, the wood burns at the back of the grill and as it heats up, smouldering chunks break off. The grill is then raised to combine these pieces
with charcoal. In fact, this is generally how the traditional Argentinian asado is operated – ingredients are
cooked using smouldering embers and not direct fire. As you can imagine, the
indirect heat makes it easier for the chef to control the temperature and not
burn the food.
We were
treated to a beautifully cooked wagyu bavette ($39) that incorporated a lightly
smoked aroma but still medium rare in the centre. The fat within the marbled
meat simply melted into everything so the beef looked lean but was juicy when
eaten. Biting into the thinner end piece, I was met with a pungent blast of
salt for my first taste. However, once a bit of the chimichurri was added, the
condiment actually helped neutralize the saltiness. Moreover, the chimichurri
was largely herbs and oil so wasn’t too vinegary, helping season the meat
without covering all the flavours.
Arriving
with a choice of sides, we decided on the patatas
bravas… after all, what’s more Argentinian than meat with potatoes? The
deep fried squashed spuds were amazingly creamy and topped with a garlic scape
sauce. I could have eaten an order of these as a starter.
The
grilled squid ($18) also spent a minute on the grill, the intense heat cooking
it quickly, so it rolls up and remains tender. Chef Iliopolus cheekily
describes it being topped by “stuff”, particularly items that can cause
allergic reactions. From what I could decipher there were crushed nuts, thinly
fried pancetta, a thicker and tarter chimichurri, and chilies. Whatever the
“stuff” was it really helped to add a burst of textures and flavours to the
dish. Although I did try one piece of the squid with everything scraped off and
it was still wonderfully flavoured on its own.
Seeing
the leg of jamón ibérico ($30) on the
counter, my husband and I eyed it giddily like kids in a candy store… we had to
have a plate to start! There’s tons of literature out there that explains
why this ham is special and commands such a high price. Having had it on a handful
of occasions, it’s still a treat. While other cured pork products tend to be
smoky, intensely salty, and you taste the porky flavour; the ibérico version has a sweet and salty
taste with no intense pig odour. Hold a slice of it on your tongue for a bit and
let the fat melt before chewing and you’ll be hit with these delicious juicy
flavours. If ham had a candy form, this would be it.
The
smoked ricotta empanada ($7) is an interesting take on the classic Argentinian
snack. At Tanto it’s deep fried, the crust encapsulating molten ricotta and a leek/onion mixture. Add a bit of their house-made hot sauce to the cheese, it
works well. While tasty, I still prefer the traditional beef version and will
try that on a return visit.
Hearing
Chef Iliopolus describe the cavatelli with
clams ($28), a pasta made with semolina flour with clams and peas, I knew it
would be a dish I’d like. The chewiness of the cavatelli reminded me of gnocchi and the lightness of the peas and
pea shoots were a great compliment to the rest of the meal. If only the clams
weren’t cold this would have been the perfect dish for me. While not terrible,
as the clams were plump and sweet, cold juicy clams with warm pasta wasn’t a
contrast I enjoyed.
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 74 Ossington Avenue
Address: 74 Ossington Avenue
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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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