Toronto’s definition of Hakka cuisine isn’t necessarily
correct. Rather than linking it to the style of cooking from Hakka Chinese
individuals, images of flavourful Chinese Indian dishes come to mind instead.
Federick is a Scarborough institution and although people
argue whether it’s deteriorated through the years, I find their offerings just
as filled with spices and plentiful as from my youth. Their dining room has
been revamped, not exactly palatial but the comfier seating and bright colours
a step up from the hole-in-the-wall I remember.
Perhaps their most famous dish is the chicken pakora ($8.99),
deep fried nuggets of sizzling hot juicy chicken adorning every table in the
restaurant. Marinated so the saltiness runs deep into the chicken, specks of
green chilies peak out of the batter to remind you of where the spicy, but bearable,
heat originates.
The chili chicken ($8.99) could use more spices, the main
flavour derived from the soy sauce that forms the gravy that coats the diced
meet. Nevertheless, it’s a fragrant dish and goes well with the steamed rice
and what heat it lacks there are pungent hot sauces on the table that can
always be added.
Despite the flecks of redness over the kan shue green beans
($7.50), they aren’t spicy. Although, this could be on account of the pakora
and chili chicken already numbing the taste buds by the time the third dish
arrives. I love the garlicky bits coating the beans, which helps the vegetables
hold their own amongst the other strong items.
The Hakka mixed chow mein ($8) is delicious, combining
thicker Shanghai noodles with the curry and egg mixture found with Singapore vermicelli.
Plenty of shrimp, beef (we substituted for the regular chicken), bean sprouts
and green onions are found throughout the savoury chewy noodles.
Even with a second location in Markham, Federick is still busy;
every table was filled during our weeknight visit and I was lucky to get a
parking spot in front of the restaurant. Yet, the meal is a quick one and if
you’re in a hurry there’s always the trusty take-out section located right beside
the dining room. If you can handle the spice, give Federick’s Chinese Indian
dishes a try.
Overall mark - 7.5 out of 10
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 1920 Ellesmere Road
Address: 1920 Ellesmere Road
Website: http://www.federickrestaurant.com/
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Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
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