What’s old – er… excuse me, vintage – seems to be in demand
lately. The era of a simpler life, less demands, better quality, whatever. We yearn
for it. Stepping into Old Avenue Restaurant and Bakery, these vintage elements
scream at you from the walls. It’s designed to look like it’s been operating
forever, not newly opened in late 2022.
Their menu offers a variety of dishes from the Southern
Caucasus region - modern day Armenia, Georgia, and Azerbaijan. It’s a lengthy proposal
with so many delicious sounding dishes that it will take several visits for me
to try everything I want. That is, if I can stop ordering items I’ve already
found tasty.
A post-university trip took me around Europe for a month and
it was along the Austrian borders I was introduced to goulash, a
fragrant spiced beef and vegetable soup that was so comforting. The goulash in
North America is different, usually a thicker stew-like consistency and while
stocked with meat and potatoes there’s generally little spice.
Seeing borscht ($8) described on Old Avenue’s menu,
the ingredients instantly reminded me of the goulash of Austria: beef, tomatoes,
cabbage, onions, potatoes, carrots, greens, and a touch of beets. Served in a covered
claypot, the soup arrived piping hot and once the lid was removed, I was
greeted with the European aroma. The broth was teeming with umami without the
acidy of the tomatoes and filled with chunks of tender beef and finely sliced
vegetables that blended wonderfully.
Old Avenue’s blintzes with meat ($10 for 2 pieces) arrived
with a spectacular golden crust, adding a bit of crunch to the otherwise soft
and delicate crepes. The mixture of finely ground beef and onion inside was perfectly
seasoned creating flavour without being overly fussy or salty.
In fact, anything wrapped at Old Avenue is a hit. Their Azerbaijan
style lula wrap ($20) reminded me of a burger, donair, and burrito all
mixed into one. Ground beef and lamb were formed into kebabs and grilled then combined
with thinly sliced tomatoes, pickles, onion, and mayo in a chewy wrap that got
a lovely toasting just like the blintzes.
My error was taking the paper off the wrap as the thin creamy
sauce simply wanted to gush out of the wrap on the first bite. A bit of
messiness aside, the lula wrap was delicious – its heartiness balanced
out by the acid of the garlicky pickles. The fries were equally impressive, uber
crispy on the outside and fluffy inside. They were also perfect for dipping
into the saucy wrap – next time I’ll even stuff a couple inside to create a
dish like a gyro.
After all the meaty dishes, we were glad the kitchen sent
out some pumpkin manti ($14 for 4 pieces) that were mistakenly mixed with
the meat version we had ordered. Personally, I preferred the pumpkin; the squash
made into a puree with some strands left in for texture that went nicely with
the thin chewy dumpling wrapper. Conversely, the beef and onion version were too
dense, the filling forming a meatball rather than loose like the blintzes.
Served with a slightly spicy salsa, the condiment added a
pop of flavour and freshness that awoken the manti. Still, I couldn’t
help smearing more sauce from the other dishes (like the garlicky humus that
comes with the complimentary hot bread or the ricotta-like spread from the khachapuri
lobiani) to give the manti even more flavour. My
recommendation: don’t give back any of the house-made sauces as they are
wonderful across the dishes.
The Georgian khachapuri lobiani ($24) wouldn’t be a
dish I’d order again. While I enjoyed the buttery thin bread surrounding the
“pie”, the mashed red kidney bean filling was too dry, too dense, and lacked
flavour. The menu describes the beans as being mixed with onion, seasoning, and
“special” cheese, but all I could taste was beans and maybe a hint of cumin. In
the end, there wasn’t much flavour, and the only cheese was the small dollop of
the ricotta-like spread that arrived with the gigantic pie.
I tried to salvage the dish by loading it with the salsa,
garlic hummus and the mayo from the lula wrap. While it improved the
flavours a bit, I still couldn’t get through a full slice of the khachapuri
lobiani. Still, don’t let me stop you from trying this Georgian dish, just
order it with a large table as one slice is more than enough.
Having had a lovely dinner at Old Avenue, I decided to go
back for brunch. The Turkish breakfast ($40 for two people) sounded like an
amazing spread but turned out to be a mishmash of cheeses (run of the mill
cheddar, smoked gouda, Swiss, cottage, goat cheese, and feta), chopped
vegetables, olives, and condiments. It’s not overly exciting and oddly served
with a cheese pede when there’s already so much dairy.
The scrambled eggs and Turkish sausage, also meant to serve
two people, consisted of literally two eggs and a handful of cut sausage medallions
that was hardly enough for a duo. For my tastes, I’d rather Old Avenue should remove
some of the cheeses and serve more of the hot items.
Still, the Turkish breakfast was a cost-effective option as
it also included a large pot of Turkish tea served in gorgeous ornate cups.
Normally, a restaurant omelette is large and fluffy. The Old
Avenue omelet ($15) was thin like a crepe and filled with tons of vegetables
and herbs creating a light and refreshing dish. Still, I could have done
without the tarte vinegar drizzled over the top and found it needed a richer
element to give the eggs interest. Luckily, there was plenty of feta and goat
cheese from the Turkish breakfast I could add to the omelette.
So maybe a Southern Caucasus breakfast is not my thing. Nevertheless,
I love the atmosphere at Old Avenue Restaurant and Bakery: warm, inviting, and the
real tapered candles gives the restaurant an almost romantic feeling if the
dining room wasn’t so eccentric.
After dining in so many minimalist dining
rooms, the blast-from-the-past kitschy items adorning the walls is a welcomed
change.
Overall mark - 7.5 out of 10
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 1923 Avenue Road
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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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