As a society, we seem to be a nostalgic bunch. Possibly a by
product of living through the pandemic, or just because we crave the “good old
days” when things were just simpler. We’re listening to more oldies than current
top hits, television reboots are sprouting up, and the excitement around Top
Gun Maverick is palpable. Does this bleed into the way we eat as well?
Unfortunately, rising rents and COVID has also claimed several
iconic diners across Toronto. For Midtown residents, we’re lucky that Hazel’s
Diner is still around. Having been to their Yonge location on numerous occasions,
I was invited to visit the newer Mount Pleasant outpost, which serves the same
menu.
While the Yonge location’s dark wooden interior provides a
homey rustic feeling, Mount Pleasant’s dining room is full of bright colours
and light, a nod to the retro diners of the 50s. I almost expected to find Archie
and Jughead lounging around the restaurant, tucking into large frothy milkshakes.
The Mount Pleasant location also has an outdoor patio, hidden by beautiful foliage and a wide sidewalk so that there's more privacy.
You can certainly find the staple breakfast fare of bacon
and eggs at Hazel’s, although I think their signature creations are so much
better and love that their menu offers so many meat-free options.
Bonnie’s hash ($17), named after the owner’s wife who is a vegetarian,
is a hearty combination of well toasted potatoes mixed with corn, onion,
pepper, spinach, garlic, and jalapeno, topped with two eggs done to your liking
(my over medium was done perfectly). It’s a satisfying breakfast that’s also refreshing
and delicious.
I only wish the rye bread was less crispy – it’s more akin
to melba toast – and is great for dipping into eggs but not solo with jam. Sourced
from a local bakery, the owner explains the lack of preservatives does mean it
can crisp up quickly, so perhaps order it untoasted if you like your bread
soft.
The TPA benny ($17) is a healthy choice as the poached eggs are
accompanied by a mound of arugula salad, tomato slices, and asparagus. Of
course, they are also slathered in a rich buttery hollandaise and sit on a
large crispy rosti, but what’s a breakfast without potatoes?
|
Picture and experience of TPA Benny from Yonge location |
Hazel’s rosti is crunchier than the traditional Swiss
version; it’s more like deep fried shredded potatoes than a pan-toasted potato
pancake. Yet, it starts to soften as the egg yolk and tomato juices begin to meld
into the rosti. Everything was so fresh thanks to the owner’s dedication
to buying most of the ingredients himself… he’s a touch and see the ingredients
kind of person. Oh, and if you’re wondering what TPA stands for, it’s tomato
potato arugula.
On the other hand, if you’re craving decadence, the eggs
Natasha ($19) places poached eggs on smoked salmon and pancakes topped with
hollandaise, sour cream, and black caviar. It’s a savoury, sweet, and smoky
concoction, certainly a dish to wake up the taste buds and makes me wonder if
it’s too early to have a shot of vodka.
For those who like it sweet, the French toast is made from challah
so that it’s extra custardy tasting with a faint cinnamon finish. I
particularly love that Hazel’s uses maple syrup instead of the overly thick and
plasticky tasting table syrup. When you’re creating such wonderful dishes, go
maple!
After such a filling brunch, I didn’t think we could get
through the loaded waffle ($16), but as I took a bite of the fluffy creation with
a sweet berry, I wanted another bite and another… needless to say, it did not
go to waste. And despite what looks like an insane amount of whipped cream, it was
as light as air and seemed to vanish on the tongue.
One thing is for sure, you’ll leave Hazel’s feeling
satisfied (if not stuffed) as that’s how diners are supposed to be. I picture a
stout smiling women with a slight Southern twang urging me to eat another bite
and ending sentences with “sugar”. Imagine my surprise when I find out Hazel is
the name of the owner’s car … so, not a person. I guess that’s one thing about
nostalgia, we look back with rosier glasses, and in my mind, there will always
be a Grandma Hazel.
Overall mark - 8 out of 10
Disclaimer: The above meal was complimentary. Rest assured, as noted in the mission statement, I will always provide my honest opinion.
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 523 Mt Pleasant Road
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Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
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