Located on the second floor of Toronto’s Hotel X, Roses Cocina’s expansive corner lot windows provide a glimpse of downtown Toronto’s lakefront. In fact, time your dinner reservation right and on a clear day you may even get a glimpse of a beautiful sunset.

Roses’ Mexican influenced menu combines Mexican spices with more localized ingredients to create fresh and flavourful dishes. It’s not authentic and not even the “Tex-Mex” that’s described by Google, but one thing’s for sure, you’ll experience some heat.

Using smaller bay scallops in their ceviche ($22) was a smart choice as a larger crustacean can sometimes give off a gummy texture. Yet, I found the dish more crudo than ceviche as the acidic juices weren’t left on long enough to permeate the whole scallops (cutting them in half may help speed up the process).

The avocado was a smart pairing with the scallops, adding a lovely creaminess, but the dish contained too much red onion and lime, their strong pungent flavours detracting the scallops’ sweetness. The ceviche could have also benefited from more salt, especially since it wasn’t served with whole chips to scoop onto, which would have given it that seasoned crunchy bite.

Roses’ chopped salad ($20) had a kick from the chipotle ranch dressing covering a host of crunchy vegetables (romaine, slaw, and onions). Finished with savoury avocado cotija, shredded cheese, and tortilla crumble, there’s a satisfying richness to the greens. I just wish we thought to have it served alongside our main as the flavourful creaminess of the salad would go nicely with chicken.

You can certainly share the half chicken ($33) amongst two, the dish arriving with plenty of de-boned fowl slathered in an orange chipotle glaze there’s added a lovely smoky, sweet, and spicy taste. The first bites were so juicy and satisfying, but because the restaurant (like many hotels) was cold and drafty, the dish cooled down so quickly that by my second helping it wasn’t nearly as great. Do yourself a favour and eat this fast.  

The chicken paired nicely with the tomato and chorizo rice ($15), which was substantial enough to be a main - big chunks of tender spicy chorizo, mixed with a flavourful tomato rice studded with beans, and enhanced with fragrant scallions and crispy shallots. Once again, eat it while it’s hot.

Roses Cocina just does carbs right. In fact, one of the dinner’s highlights was their complimentary bread - a warm squash brioche served with honey butter dusted with chipotle seasoning. Yes, each fluffy bite was as flavourful as it sounds. I would have been happy having another one of these buns for dessert.

There never seems to be enough cheesecake crust to go around. Roses solved this dilemma by surrounding their margarita cheesecake ($14) with three thin crispy graham crackers. It’s an interesting choice as the savoury buttery crust gives the vanilla lime cheesecake that slightly salty zing, you’d normally find around a margherita glass. I just wish the tequila flavour was more pronounced in the margarita gel.

When summer arrives, Roses Cocina will be creating an outdoor patio along the balcony. What a great location to head to before a concert at Ontario Place or after a walk along the waterfront or the Ex. One thing’s for sure, Roses Cocina will give the Exhibition’s churros and tacos a run for their money.