Even after dining at Soluna, I’m still not sure how to best describe the restaurant. They call themselves as a “Miami meets Tulum-inspired supper club”. And while the entrance screams Mexican, everything else says they’re inspired by more than Tulum.

Starting with the Toronto Life Insider tasting menu ($120 per person). Sure, there were some Mexican dishes from Chef Ricardo Dominguez’s background, but it also showcased Mediterranean, Thailand, and Latin American dishes as well. Ultimately, it was a collection of dishes with bold flavours. Note: regular menu prices have been included in this post.

The spicy crudo ($29) was one of those powerful dishes. Starting with the rub on the seared tenderloin encompassing smoky and salty flavours, but then it’s combined with a spicy habanero mole sauce as well. It was so overpowering that the dish really needed a neutral ingredient to balance it out. The avocado was a start, but even some lettuce wraps to go with steak would be nice.

Normally labneh ($18) has such a fresh creamy element to it, but the Kalamata olive tapenade and za’atar splashed on top made it so salty that the yoghurt became secondary. A little goes a long way on a piece pita or crostini. More sliced vegetables could help mellow out the saltiness of the dip.

I wish I had the Peruvian ceviche ($25) first as after the other two starters all the delicate flavours of the seafood became lost. Such a shame as the dish had the right elements like fresh pieces of fruit (watermelon and goose berries) as well as Asian inspired flavours from the yuzu and sesame oil. Comparatively, it tasted muted and seemed to need more salt, some of which was supplied by the delicious crispy taro chips.

The refreshing Mediterranean salad ($16) was a welcomed dish to follow. The lettuce, cucumber, and tomato mixture dressed in a vibrant red gazpacho that created a deliciously different take on the typical Greek salad.

That brightness was a good pairing for the Thai shrimp ($25), which seemed out-of-place on the menu. You really can’t go wrong with crispy fried shrimp - it’s something crowds will like - but I can’t say the curry sauce and compressed pineapple complimented it well. If anything, I would have liked a jazzed up pico di gallo or tomatillo salsa with the seafood instead.

It is nice to see all the vegetarian options available on Soluna’s menu. A similar fried plant-based starter would be their cauliflower ($21), encrusted in a gluten-free batter and served with a delicious pumpkin sauce. If they were cut into smaller florets and fried longer (to the crispness of the Thai shrimp), it would have brought the dish up to another level.

Once we got to the mains, Chef Ricardo treated us to an off-menu item - duck tacos. I wouldn’t have called it a taco, may a non-crispy flauta. The flour tortilla was stuffed with a Peking duck-style pulled confit so that every bite was filled with the fowl. While it’s tasty, I would have liked something crunchy and fresh to balance out the roll. Maybe julienned cucumbers, carrots, and scallions (if we’re following the Peking duck flavours) or julienned jicama, scallions, and cactus (for more Mexican flavours).

The striploin was cooked well, topped with melted miso butter with a side of puffed potatoes (a cross between roasted potatoes and chips) and serrano aioli. It’s a solid meat and potatoes dish but doesn’t really feel unique.

Yet, if you’re out for dinner with someone who can’t handle the spice, sharing one of Soluna’s steaks is a good idea. Perhaps paired with the well-roasted broccolini ($11) and uber crispy fingerling potatoes ($11). Together, the dishes can rival what’s found at steakhouses.

For me, I enjoy different flavours and once you slather the adobo sauce onto the branzino ($59), it really wakes up the neutral fish. Only the pineapple salsa wasn’t sitting well, a bit too sweet against the flaky fish. Sub the pineapple for a something savoury and crisp up the branzino’s skin and this would be a great dish.  

Get an order of the tres leche ($15) … it’s heavenly. The soft soaked sponge cake enhanced with an espresso meringue and coffee whipped cream so there’s a tiramisu taste. It’s a shareable dessert, but why would you want to?

Meanwhile, the passion fruit tart ($15) is much harder to divvy up as the crispy shell crumbles causing the custard to leak out. While it’s an impressive looking dessert - served in a smoked filled dome that’s theatrically lifted at the table – it tastes like a run-of-the-mill tart.

Still, that was way better than the Caissis cloud, a dessert I could only have one bite. It’s an acquired taste… perhaps liked by those who enjoy chocolate and fruit combinations. For me, the chocolate raspberry mousse studded with brownie chunks and fruit (something tasting like Brookside dark chocolate covered açai blueberries) was strange.

While the food is a bit of a hit and a miss, Soluna makes up for with its vibe. The dining room is beautiful and there’s a festive feeling to dining there. There are no boring dinners here, even during a Wednesday evening they pushed away tables to host a salsa dancing class. For those who prefer to stay in their seats, they also had two seductively dancing girls performing periodically.

If I had to describe Soluna, it’s like a restaurant you would find at a tropical resort. Not necessarily traditional, but you’ll have fun or at the very least be momentarily transported somewhere else.