After dining at Estiatoria Milos, the concept of ‘going all out’ sticks out to me. They went all out on the experience: creating a surreal high ceiling dining room and staffing it with a village (I have never seen so many people working at one restaurant). And for the diner, you must go all out on a meal as sticker shock is a possibility while pursuing the menu.

There’s a big production, almost insistence, of leading tables to the fresh catch area where seafood is displayed in all it’s glory. I find it a bit morbid to see the poor creature that’s about to be eaten, but diners seem to like looking a lobster in it’s eye before shelling out $280 for a plate of pasta.

For the cost conscious, ordering off the menu is your best bet. Milo’s fresh seafood is sold by the pound, with things starting from about $65/lb and most items being at least 2 pounds, that amazing display will run you $130+ per dish.

And while their swordfish ($65) wasn’t being displayed, it was fresh and delicious. Using only the centre cut of the loin creates a delicate steak that’s awfully tender for a fish that’s grilled. Left slightly undercooked, the fish takes on a seared tuna finish but is lighter than the bold red fish.  

Personally, I prefer my tuna raw. Milo’s tuna tartare ($45) was perfectly seasoned - just enough salt and a hint of chili to add flavour without any sting. If only there were more lavish crackers to go through all the fish, the delicate crisp a great neutral pairing.

I guess the freshly toasted crusty bread can stand-in for the cracker. It arrives in a basket with a very generous pour of olive oil that most tables end up wasting. It’s topped with freshly pruned oregano that’s more for show than flavour.

For something filling, order the Milos special ($45), a tower of thinly sliced fried zucchini and eggplant that’s ideal for a table of three or four. At the centre of the tower is a very thick garlicky tzatziki that easily spreads onto the chips. Hunks of battered and fried saganaki cheese round out the special. A squeeze of lemon would help to cut through the heaviness.

A vegetarian could easily get an order of the grilled wild mushrooms ($24) and be satisfied. With a great selection of fungi (oyster, shiitake, prince, and a spongy watery one that we couldn’t identify), the thick pieces could easily stand-in as a plant-based steak. They are quickly grilled and dressed with olive oil, salt, and thyme for a simplicity that matches the mushrooms.

Ultimately, the hand cut Greek fried potatoes ($10) are fries. They’re fine, but just like any other fry.

I was happy to see a substantial dessert menu at Estiatoria Milos with a selection of items that are not baklava. The Ekmek kataifi ($19) stood out against the rest, consisting of a moist cake topped with custard, pistachio, and some spices. Our waiter described it as a Greek tiramisu and I’d say it’s an accurate depiction, with a similar texture but fresher finish.

There’s a softness to the cheesecake ($19) that makes you think it’ll be very light while cutting into it. Yet, despite looking gelatinous, it’s surprisingly rich with the thick graham crust adding a savouriness that helps balance out the sweet Greek yoghurt-based cake.

Chocolate lovers would probably devour the chocolate sin ($19) but for me it was too much. A cross between flourless cake and mousse, it’s thick and screams of dark chocolate.

Service was attentive with people dedicated to checking in on us and pouring water and wine. Crumbs are brushed between each course and a napkin laid down to cover any wine spots that may dot the pristine white tablecloth. That’s one benefit about employing a village, diners won’t be overlooked.

Even as Chantecler completed a transformation in 2016 – their menu evolving from Asian fusion small plates to French traditional mains - its popularity hasn’t waned; a dinner weekend visit was just as busy as two year’s prior. In terms of décor, little has changed: the dining room is still cozy and dimly lit, the vintage stove still going strong.

Their gougères ($5) have taken a dive – the puffs need to be warmer and incorporate more cheese. Whereas previously it had a molten centre, the innards for these is like a buttery bite of brioche, hardly the bite-sized treat I was expecting.

With the first taste of the soft almost mushy steak tartare ($12), I was on the fence. But, once it was scooped onto the crunchy crostini and the hits of chopped gherkins came through, there was enough texture to balance out the meat. Incorporating tons of spices and a large raw egg yolk, the tartare is rich. With its hefty portion, this starter is made for sharing.

The half duck with crepes ($32) arrived with a pan seared duck breast and salty confit leg. Both were cooked wonderfully, the skin extremely crispy and well rendered while the meat remaining juicy and tender. 

If only the chive crepes weren’t ice cold the dish would be excellent. When wrapping the duck, having your first taste be a chilly foamy shell isn’t appetizing. Really Chantecler, if you’re not going to at least re-heat the crepes … just leave them out.

Their roasted cauliflower ($6) is made for people who normally don’t eat vegetables. Slathered in a creamy cheese sauce and topped with chopped almonds for crunch, the side could easily stand in for mac ‘n’ cheese.

Surprisingly, Chantecler has a boring dessert menu consisting of two choices that really don’t elicit excitement. What a disappointment given there are so many French pastries to choose from and we saved room for a sweet ending. Nonetheless, what they lack in choice, they compensate by executing the two options very well.

The custard in the lemon parfait ($8) was luscious and smooth, its tartness balanced by the cookie crumble and vanilla whipped cream. You don’t get that hit at the back of your throat that makes you squint, instead after a taste I instantly wanted another spoonful.

Despite not being a fan of flourless chocolate torte ($12), Chantecler’s was delicious. The espresso cream added interest against the rich smooth ganache and the blackberry with cassis (a red current liqueur) lightening the dessert a bit.

Chantecler’s laid back vibe makes the restaurant ideal for catching up with friends (although a small group suggested as the loud music makes it impossible to speak to more than four). You can even dine alone, grabbing a seat along the bar. Their open concept kitchen will keep you entertained or have you wondering if you should swap out the stainless steel gas range for a cute old-fashioned electric stove instead.  

• Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
• 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
• 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
• 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
• 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
• 10 - absolute perfection!

• Chabrol
• Colette Grand Cafe