After dining at Estiatoria Milos, the concept of ‘going all out’ sticks out to me. They went all out on the experience: creating a surreal high ceiling dining room and staffing it with a village (I have never seen so many people working at one restaurant). And for the diner, you must go all out on a meal as sticker shock is a possibility while pursuing the menu.

There’s a big production, almost insistence, of leading tables to the fresh catch area where seafood is displayed in all it’s glory. I find it a bit morbid to see the poor creature that’s about to be eaten, but diners seem to like looking a lobster in it’s eye before shelling out $280 for a plate of pasta.

For the cost conscious, ordering off the menu is your best bet. Milo’s fresh seafood is sold by the pound, with things starting from about $65/lb and most items being at least 2 pounds, that amazing display will run you $130+ per dish.

And while their swordfish ($65) wasn’t being displayed, it was fresh and delicious. Using only the centre cut of the loin creates a delicate steak that’s awfully tender for a fish that’s grilled. Left slightly undercooked, the fish takes on a seared tuna finish but is lighter than the bold red fish.  

Personally, I prefer my tuna raw. Milo’s tuna tartare ($45) was perfectly seasoned - just enough salt and a hint of chili to add flavour without any sting. If only there were more lavish crackers to go through all the fish, the delicate crisp a great neutral pairing.

I guess the freshly toasted crusty bread can stand-in for the cracker. It arrives in a basket with a very generous pour of olive oil that most tables end up wasting. It’s topped with freshly pruned oregano that’s more for show than flavour.

For something filling, order the Milos special ($45), a tower of thinly sliced fried zucchini and eggplant that’s ideal for a table of three or four. At the centre of the tower is a very thick garlicky tzatziki that easily spreads onto the chips. Hunks of battered and fried saganaki cheese round out the special. A squeeze of lemon would help to cut through the heaviness.

A vegetarian could easily get an order of the grilled wild mushrooms ($24) and be satisfied. With a great selection of fungi (oyster, shiitake, prince, and a spongy watery one that we couldn’t identify), the thick pieces could easily stand-in as a plant-based steak. They are quickly grilled and dressed with olive oil, salt, and thyme for a simplicity that matches the mushrooms.

Ultimately, the hand cut Greek fried potatoes ($10) are fries. They’re fine, but just like any other fry.

I was happy to see a substantial dessert menu at Estiatoria Milos with a selection of items that are not baklava. The Ekmek kataifi ($19) stood out against the rest, consisting of a moist cake topped with custard, pistachio, and some spices. Our waiter described it as a Greek tiramisu and I’d say it’s an accurate depiction, with a similar texture but fresher finish.

There’s a softness to the cheesecake ($19) that makes you think it’ll be very light while cutting into it. Yet, despite looking gelatinous, it’s surprisingly rich with the thick graham crust adding a savouriness that helps balance out the sweet Greek yoghurt-based cake.

Chocolate lovers would probably devour the chocolate sin ($19) but for me it was too much. A cross between flourless cake and mousse, it’s thick and screams of dark chocolate.

Service was attentive with people dedicated to checking in on us and pouring water and wine. Crumbs are brushed between each course and a napkin laid down to cover any wine spots that may dot the pristine white tablecloth. That’s one benefit about employing a village, diners won’t be overlooked.