Some restaurants just exude an unexplainable charm, and this
is Lake Inez. Maybe it’s their homey dining room that elicits a sense of
comfort, the helpful but not over-the-top staff that makes you feel you’re amid
seasoned veterans, or the quirky hand drawn menus and wine descriptions that
makes you chuckle. Whatever if its, this charm makes you really want to like
Lake Inez.
Their menu features seasonal ingredients along with whatever
they pickled/fermented previously that’s now ready-to-eat. Dishes are presented
with eccentric names that has a Trader Joe-like feel, such as the Hand Upstream
Rolls ($22), which presents the upstream swimming fish, salmon, cured into gravlax
form and covers it with cream fraiche and plum sauce. I enjoyed the meaty
chunks of fish but wish the chefs weren’t so heavy handed with the sauce, it masked
the salmon’s flavours and made it difficult to wrap in the nori.
While pairing tomatoes with bonito seems strange, the Tomato
Tonnato ($21) was one of our favorite dishes of the night. Somehow, the fish
flakes’ umami essence and the juicy heirlooms just work, bringing out the freshness
of the fruit but giving it a bit of je ne sais quoi as well.
In fact, Lake Inez’s most simple sounding dishes were the tastiest.
The Humble Potato ($19) featured big chunks of well-fried, roughed up potatoes
that have a lovely crispy coating and tosses it in a flavourful Gouda queso.
While the dish may sound heavy, the addition of herbs and anise hyssop (an
edible flower) added a freshness to the cheesy potatoes.
Along the same vein, the Corn Puddin’ & Baby Shrimp
($23) was a lovely dip of hot gooey Fresno sauce studded with sweet corn and a
fair amount of just cooked through shrimp. While it was tasty, it would be even
better with more seasoning and salt. Still, the bread plate sized tortillas
added a sunniness to the dish that I couldn’t help but smile when seeing it.
The Wham! Bam! Thank You, Ham! ($22) started with promise
with slices of lightly cured country ham paired with sweet Korean melon and
pears. But then the pickled watermelon rind and pickled peanuts were so pungent
that after getting a bite of these that’s all I could taste.
It seems Lake Inez really likes sour flavours as the Cucumber?!
I Hardly Know Her! ($19) was also too tart for my taste. The diced crunchy
cucumber was tossed with a cashew cream that seems to contain a fair amount of
preserved lemon. Aside from the refreshing cucumber and lemon, the other
flavours were rather muted as I couldn’t really taste the curry leaves or much
salt. This was a divided dish for the table.
The Miami Memory ($28) contained a piece of well-seasoned
blackened snapper that had a nice spice but was over cooked. While it was
considered a larger “main” dish, there was a scant portion of snapper, and the shredded
greens and couscous side didn’t increase it’s substantialness by much.
Mama’s Meatballs ($28 for two; $10 for an additional
meatball and bread) was more generous and the better of the two mains if you’re
hungry. Mama makes moist and not overly dense meatballs and the peach ragu and mostarda
lightens the otherwise hearty dish. Serving these with a large hunk of buttered
toast was smart to help mop up the sauce.
While Lake Inez has great vibes, their dishes were hit and
miss. Ideally, you should visit with a group of at least four people so you can
order the entire menu to find the dishes that stand out. Regardless, the
restaurant seems to get such great reviews, perhaps not necessarily for the
food, but for their quirky warm charm. Just look at these menus as see if you
don’t crack a smile.
Address: 1471 Gerrard St East
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
Other Gastro World posts similar to this: