For me, a restaurant’s a hit when I’m already planning on
who I can return with during my first meal. Such was the case with Miss
Likklemore’s, one spoon of the sock-you-in-the-mouth rice from the crab XO
($62) and I was hooked. If risotto made sweet love to a tropical gumbo, perhaps
this is would be their love child. To say it’s flavourful is an understatement:
there’s a rich savouriness, hits of tangy spice from pickled chilis, a sweet
tropical essence from pineapple (?) and toasted coconut chips, and a hit of
freshness from the occasional cilantro.
If this weren’t enough, pea sized chunks of crab are strewn
throughout with a whole cluster nestled on top, slathered in butter, and topped
with a mild XO sauce. It’s messy to eat but there’s something exhilarating
about grabbing onto a crab leg and cracking it opened with your bare hands. If
only there was some wet naps to deal with the after math… I feel sorry for the
restaurant’s cleaners, no one should have to witness the state of my cloth
napkin.
If Miss Likklemore’s was a real person, I sense she wouldn’t
care about etiquette. The jerk chicken ($35) is carved but served bone-in so
that those who are dainty can stick with the hunks of tender breast meat, but
the real chicken fans will gladly grab onto the drumstick, thigh, or the
ultra-flavourful wing. There wasn’t a dry portion on the bird and the flavours
were bang on – a subtle spice that builds and lingers on the tongue but not
overly pungent. If you want an extra boost of flavour, more gravy is included
to douse and dip.
I would suggest tucking into the jerk chicken as soon as it
arrives as it’s delicious when it’s piping hot. Because the dining room is
heavily air conditioned, the protein cools down quickly and while it’s still
tasty, the last bites are not nearly as good as the first.
Given the oxtail ($65) is swimming in gravy, it somewhat resists
getting cold. Yet, you’ll want a few friends to order this sizeable dish as the
pieces of beef are huge and meaty, the size of a short rib, cooked just to the
point of tender without being overly soft. Still, after some of the more
flavourful dishes, I did find the oxtail blander in comparison… ideally, this
would be served with a hot sauce so diners could amp up the flavour on the
gravy. And it’s a sauce you won’t want to waste so make sure to order a side of
fragrant coconut rice ($12).
Even their rock shrimp ($26) surprised us. What looked like
the typical battered nuggets – found in modern Japanese restaurants like Ki and
Kasa Moto - have such a nuanced flavour at Miss Likklemores. The aioli is spicy
but balanced with freshness from the finely chopped mint, and an almost citrusy
finish that I can’t quite place (like lemongrass but not quite).
The doubles ($11 for two; $6 for additional) was another
popular starter, the bara is fluffy and warm and filled with a savoury chickpea
curry. It’s accompanied with tamarind chutney to give it some tanginess if
that’s your thing.
Of all the dishes, only the fried snapper ($75)
disappointed. While it was beautifully presented and the deboned fillets were
cooked to flakey perfection, it was so heavily seasoned that the saltiness gave
it a bitter tone. Ultimately, I had to scrape the snapper’s flesh out of the breading
to enjoy it. Even then, I hardly needed the escovitch dipping sauce, the
fish’s flesh already salty enough, indicating how much seasoning was used on
the batter that it’d seep through so thoroughly.
On both weeknight visits, the service was attentive and
top-notch, dishes arrive at a good clip without feeling overly rushed. If I had
one complaint, it’d be nonchalant attitude to criticism. After each dish was
presented, our server would give us ten minutes then stop by to see how things
were tasting – us raving about how good it is, of course. Except for the fried
snapper where I commented how overly salted it was that it’s barely edible. Disappointingly,
there wasn’t a reaction… no “sorry to hear about that, I’ll let the chef know”,
no offer for a replacement, nada. In my opinion, if a restaurant’s not ready to
right a wrong, they shouldn’t bother asking for feedback to start.
The one slip up aside, I really enjoyed the dishes and even
the snapper would have been an incredible dish if it weren’t double seasoned. I
sense I’ll be seeing Miss Likklemores again. If she was personified, she’s certainly
someone I’d love to become good friends with.
Address: 433 King Street West
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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