If song writers were to remake popular songs to update them
for the 21st century, I wonder how Nat King Cole’s The Christmas
Song would change. Could chestnuts still be roasting on an open fire? I can’t
remember the last time I’ve had roasted chestnuts, especially not during
Christmas. And do families really cook anything over an open fire anymore? The
closest foods that come to mind are barbequed meats and pizza, but I guess
“tomahawks and pizza cooking on an open fire” doesn’t quite have the same ring
to it. Regrettably, you now have a glimpse of my chaotic inner mind.
Perhaps it’s a tune that Otto Trattoria will consider
remaking for their holidays as their wood burning oven is prominently displayed
and coaxes every table to get one of their pies.
I like tasting a chef’s skill with a plainer pizza. We tried
the burrata pizza ($24), which was covered with tomato sauce, basil oil,
cherry tomatoes, and the cheese. The crust had a lovely soft chewy consistency but
would have been better if it weren’t soggy in the centre – unfortunately, there
was too much tomato sauce. Still, I liked that the chef broke up the cheese and
applied it evenly across the pie so that every bite contained some burrata.
The prosciutto & rucola ($22) takes the
basic pizza and tops it with a covering of thinly shaved cured ham and arugula.
Strangely the chef cuts the crust before topping the pie, so diners need to saw
through the prosciutto with a butter knife, which causes the cheese to slide
around. One small change of cutting the pizza after covering it with the
meat would help make eating this easier. Messiness aside, the paper-thin crust
remains crispy and it’s a flavourful bite as you get the fresh tomato sauce,
gooey cheese, salty ham, and peppery arugula.
I’m glad Otto leaves their tomato sauce rather neutral so
it’s not overly salty. If anything, it allows you to ask for their chopped
green chili oil to scatter over top to give it a light heat.
The chili oil also pairs nicely with the rigatoni Bolognese
($24), cutting through some of the heaviness of the meaty beef and veal and
helping to flavour the under seasoned sauce. While the menu notes it’s served
with rigatoni, the pasta almost resembles an oversized macaroni that really traps
the sauce within the crevices and inside. The dish is simply finished with parmigiano
and tastes authentic.
While I was taken aback by the square pasta shape used in
the shrimp linguine ($23) – surely, more spaghetti than linguine - I’m
glad it was homemade and arrived with a lovely chewiness. The white wine, olive
oil, and garlic sauce was thickened with a touch of pasta water, so it clings
nicely to the noodles. Along with cherry tomatoes and spinach, the dish is
fresh and nicely seasoned. I just wish there was more than four shrimp and that
they would be cooked less so they aren’t as rubbery.
Yet, nothing surprised us more than the sheer size of the chicken parmagiana ($31) - just the cutlet resembled a dinner plate and was covered with a gooey cheese. Usually, it's a dish you need to eat quickly or starts to get soft. At Otto's, the thinly butterflied chicken breast was lightly coated in bread crumbs so it held onto the tomato sauce without becoming mushy and the spaghetti cooked al dante remaining chewy to the last bite. Trust me, you need to share this dish or be prepared for leftovers galore.
I was skeptical whether Otto’s calamari fritti
($18) would be good… it came out so quickly after placing our order. They
are likely the frozen variety, but nonetheless lightly battered, crispy, and well
seasoned. For those wanting some heat, you’ll find it in the aioli.
The more I think about it, the more I like the sound of “pizza toasting on an open fire”… it has a ring that causes a food lover’s heart to sing. Mr. Bublé, maybe it’s time for another Christmas album?
In a nutshell...
- Must order: rigatoni Bolognese and chicken parmigana
- Just skip: burrata pizza
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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