There aren’t many ventures that have been around for over a
century. The Old Mill is part of this cohort and since it’s opening in 1914 has
been a staple institution in Etobicoke. Located right on the subway line, it’s
convenient to get to but far enough from Toronto’s downtown core to feel like
you’ve stepped away for a moment.
Since its beginnings, they’ve also offered afternoon tea.
Truthfully, having visited about eight years ago when scouting it as a
potential bridal shower location, their tea service was underwhelming. In 2019,
they finally revamped the menu and now offer a daily tea service for $39 a
person, an increase from the past but still more affordable than some of other options
in the city.
Their menu starts with a selection of Sloane teas where
samples are presented at the table so guests can smell and see the leaves. The Darjeeling
2nd flush sounded mighty, the menu touting it as the “champagne of
tea”. Yet, despite the darker hue, it tasted too mellow for me. I crave
something that has more of a floral finish.
Their sandwiches aren’t necessarily dainty but leaves you
really full. Without a doubt, the smoked chicken and apple salad was the tastiest
of the bunch - a huge flavourful mound of the chunky salad sitting on a fresh
mini brioche bun.
On the other hand, the bagel used on the cucumber sandwich
and pumpernickel for the salmon gravlax were both cold and dry. While I
appreciate restaurants trying something new and different, sometimes things
should also follow tradition. Something like a cucumber sandwich, which is
meant to be light and delicate, a hard crumbly bagel is the last thing we
needed.
I’m still waiting for the day when restaurants will provide
a sweet or savoury afternoon tea option. In a heartbeat, I’d trade in the sweet
plates for more sandwiches or scones. The best part of the plate was probably
the large sweet and juicy strawberry dipped in dark chocolate.
As for everything else: the chocolate cupcake with Belgian
chocolate mousse looked moist but my teeth ached looking at it so I abstained;
the lemon meringue tartlet was a favourite amongst the table; and the gold leaf
garnished French macarons arrive with different flavours so you can swap amongst
the table.
The most important part of afternoon tea – for me and most
people – are the scones. These were scrumptious! Guests receive savoury
(cheddar and chive) and sweet (cranberry) scones. Both were warm and breaks
apart easily to reveal a fluffy soft centre while the crust was slightly crispy
and baked until golden.
If only they weren’t so stingy with the Devonshire cream …
really that tablespoon portion can barely cover one scone. Sure,
they also offer a selection of Greaves preserves (strawberry, raspberry, and
marmalade), but what makes the scones is the cream. More Devonshire for all!
Even The Old Mill’s service has improved. Our tea started
with a complimentary glass of the Mill-mosa (oh the puns!). While this free
version is made from 95% orange juice and 5% sparkling wine, it was still a
nice gesture.
You’ve heard it before: businesses must change or fail. It’s
nice to see The Old Mill update their menu to offer something better. It’s
hopefully these improvements that will help the business succeed for another
century.
Overall mark - 7 out of 10
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 9 Old Mill Road
Address: 9 Old Mill Road
Website: https://www.oldmilltoronto.com/
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Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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