Let’s face it. I could never join the keto craze.
Eliminating carbohydrates and not eating delicious bread and pasta? No thank you.
Hence, when the Grain Farmers of Ontario threw their first of a series of Crop
Up dinners to feature the bounty – barley, corn, oats, soybeans, and wheat –
they were preaching to the converted.
It was an evening of discovery. Firstly, realizing that
tucked behind Bar Raval was Woodlot, a small cozy restaurant. With their rustic
décor and wood-fired oven, it was a smartly chosen venue to showcase grains.
After all, they already make sourdough bread on site to serve during dinner –
the kitchen knows their stuff. A piece of crusty bread with butter … see why I
can never go keto?
Chef Mike explained the premise of the menu: to keep things
simple and let the grains speak for themselves. The salad was hearty using
large chunks of roasted beets that were lightly cooked so that it still
retained a slight bite. An herbed barley lay beneath to soak up the beet
juices, but it’s such a versatile side that it’d work equally well with meaty or
saucier dishes. Topping the salad was a soy nut and sunflower crumble, giving
it some crunch – almost like a really flavourful nutty crouton.
Most guests were presented with a mammoth lamb shank, but
being a flexitarian during the week, I was treated to a vegetarian main: confit
white turnip stuffed with oats, green onion, dandelion and pistachio then
cooked in their wood-burning oven and glazed in a surprisingly savoury apricot
glaze. With all the roasted vegetables on the side, it was certainly a vibrant
and healthy dish. But, I must admit… I was jealous for the lamb shank (note to
self: go back to Woodlot on a weekend).
With all the plentiful hearty dishes, it was a shame I
couldn’t finish the corn flour chiffon cake… it was just so large! Despite
being thick, it was fairly fluffy and the sweetness of the corn was augmented
with vanilla and a light touch of lavender. The blueberry compote and chamomile
lemon curd were both not overpowering. Chef Mike was true to his word – I could
enjoy the natural flavours of the ingredients.
Of course, there were educational aspects to the evening
like introducing the Grain Farmers of Ontario and explaining their representation
of over 28,000 farmers in Ontario. I also learnt that not all wheat is the same
and depending on the farm’s soil different flours are grown – Ontario wheat is largely
used for pastry flours.
What made the evening special was there were farmers in
attendance. It provided the opportunity for discussions and they very candidly
answered our questions.
So, it was nice to learn the personal stories. Both
individuals I spoke to grew up on their family farms and when starting their
own families purchased land near their parents, which is how a lot of businesses
expand. You can hear the passion in their voices and the burning desire to
ensure the survival of the family farm. Indeed, they admit, that like any other
business, they have to operate economically. Yet, they have to ensure their
practices are sustainable since the farm is also where their families live and
eat and the asset they want to pass to generations to come.
In an era of change, it wasn’t surprising to hear the
comment that a well-educated farmer is paramount for ensuring the farm
survives. As families shrink, they also need to rely on technology to help manage
the hundreds of acre of land. Big data and satellite imaging to create a map
for variable fertilizer application – is Google Farm a thing?
What I didn’t except was the frankness on some the less rosy
aspects of farming, such as the mental health issues some farmers face. It’s a
stressful industry where so much of their livelihood is dependent on weather (their
favourite topic) and politics (their second favourite topic). With the low
margins, a bout of extreme weather can have devastating financial impacts.
A lot of work needs to be done, especially at the beginning
of the season, so lack of sleep and burnout can augment the stress and anxiety.
The humanity of the profession was sadly not something I thought about
previously, but was glad for the opportunity to break bread over dinner to have
these conversations. We often take for granted the humble grain and the
nourishment they provide. It’s nice to be reminded that behind all the grains,
there’s are families of farmers, who have passion, stresses and dreams like
everyone else.
Disclaimer: The above meal was complimentary. Rest assured, as noted in my mission statement, I will always provide an honest opinion.
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 293 Palmerston Avenue
Address: 293 Palmerston Avenue
Website: https://goodineverygrain.ca/
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