Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
Address: 69 North Castle Street
Website: www.markgreenaway.com
Type of Meal: Dinner
Overall mark - 8.5 out of 10
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Gastro World's Grading System
Website: www.markgreenaway.com
Type of Meal: Dinner
Mark
Greenaway’s surroundings were simple but comfortable and the dining room held a
surprising number of tables for the small location. My only suggestion, for
the next revamp, is to change the chairs. They are simply not practical for
anyone with a purse with its holes in the back and rounded backing (nothing to
hang your purse from); alas, mine had to sit on the ground. Additionally, they were not that comfortable
which may be a downfall for patrons ordering the 8-course tasting menu whom
would need to sit for a while. Luckily, we were just popping by for a
quick dinner so they were good enough for us.
Soon after
ordering we were brought an amuse bouche of sage and pumpkin foam with toasted
pumpkin seeds. I find pure foam starters to be a hit and miss, but Mark
Greenaway's version was delicious with the fragrant warm foam set against the
nuttiness of the pumpkin seeds. The dish had a richness to it making it
taste like lobster bisque (I know a bit strange for pumpkin) and proved to be a
great start.
After the
amuse bouche, I was expecting bread to be brought out as a large disk of butter
sat on the white linens. Surprisingly, it did not and instead my
appetizer arrived first. Rather, the bread is served between the appetizer and
main which is certainly unconventional, but perhaps saves you from filling up?
The spelt
risotto (£7) was beautifully presented with a deep yellow sauce set against the
brown grains of spelt. If you like cheese, this would be a great option
as there’s plenty of it – a layer on the bottom of the plate, four croquettes
of fried cheese included and a generous shaving of parmesan on top.
Indeed, the croquettes were crispy, hot and delicious an unexpected treat
on an already rich dish. But, the risotto itself was a bit hard for my taste.
Of course, I realize the barley and spelt based risottos generally have a
harder shell so has more of a bite, but these grains hadn't split at all so it
just tasted like I was eating kernels of grain in a cheese sauce. Perhaps if
they were cooked a bit more or mixed in some rice the dish would have been
better as the flavours were certainly there.
My main of
halibut (£24) was cooked well and another colourful presentation.
Although it was good, I found the protein to be overshadowed by the
pickled vegetable garnishes accompanying the main which were so vibrant in
flavour. Every time I had a taste of the vegetables and then went back to
the fish, the halibut tasted really bland. Now, this isn’t necessarily
bad as there is some contrast, but just seems to be a shame that the main part
of the dish gets lost. It was served with a lemongrass foam but found this
didn't add much in terms of flavour.
The black
rectangle on the fish is actually a piece of squid ink pasta; a bit mushy and
not flavourful at all which is strange as squid ink tends to offer such a
distinct aroma. The highlight of the dish, for me, was two slices of
carrots which were wrapped around chopped up pieces of either fish or scallop
with micro dices of pickled radish. These garnishes were such a great
combination of tartness and silkiness of seafood that I wish there was more of
them.
The pan
roasted hake fillet (£21) that my husband ordered was definitely the better
dish of the two and exhibited a fusion of Asian and French flavours. It had the
flavourful crispy skin, which I adore with a piece of plain fish, surrounded by
a fragrant sesame ginger broth. A side of purple mash included was smooth
and had an interesting potato flavour mixed with what seemed like black sesame
and red bean. Topping the fish was a lobster tagliatelle made into a
dumpling form - sadly my husband polished this before I had a taste.
Normally, I
am not a big dessert fan but heard about their peanut butter cheesecake (£7.50)
and had to try it. The dessert consisted of layers of pressed peanut
butter and smooth cheese cake piped between peanut butter sheets. A large
piece of dark chocolate peanut bark topped everything and had a hint of
saltiness giving the cake a sweet and savoury aspect to it but not
overwhelmingly so.
As if this
were not enough a warm syrupy caramel sauce is brought to the table and poured
around the cake itself adding such a delicious buttery toffee taste to
everything. Thankfully, the sauce wasn't too sweet and was just enough to
complement the already decadent dessert. A white log decorates the cake
and at first we put it to the side thinking it was a regular run of the milk
while chocolate cylinder. When we finally tasted it we were delighted to
find it ice cold and creamy in texture going so well with the warm sauce.
I believe it might have been a frozen white chocolate gouache? This
dessert was absolutely delicious and worth all the hype it receives.
During our visit, it wasn't on the regular menu and only offered as part
of the market menu. Thankfully, the chef was accommodating and made it
for us anyways. Mr. Greenaway, put it back on your menu!
Perhaps it
was due to our late seating and there were no other diners around, but the
staff were extremely friendly and helpful, not only taking the time to chat
with us but explain some facts of Scotland to us. Overall, the experience
was a great one and Mark Greenaway is worth a visit. They also offer a great
deal with the special market menu, available from 5:30-6:45 offering 2 courses
for £16.50 or 3 courses for £20.
Overall mark - 8.5 out of 10
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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
