As steakhouses across Toronto become increasingly glamorous, with bodycon dresses and tailored suits becoming the norm, it’s refreshing to step into Barberian’s, where the upscale pub atmosphere reminds us of a simpler time. Reservations are still made over the phone, written into a paper ledger, and tables assigned as guests arrive.

The restaurant’s ever-growing collection of Canadian antiques remains proudly displayed on the walls, ceilings, and tucked into every available nook of the original tavern. If you have time before your meal, or the restaurant isn’t too busy, you can even turn it into an Easter egg hunt by spotting the treasures listed on the back of the menu, including paintings by the Group of Seven, a wooden statuette of Sir John A. Macdonald, and even antique rifles.

Some traditions haven't changed either, like the plate of pickled vegetables that lands on the table before the water is even poured. Alongside the expected dill pickles are snap peas, celery, fennel, carrots, and onions. It's a refreshing way to start the meal and a welcome palate cleanser between bites once the meat sweats inevitably kick in.

Even the Caesar salad ($27; half order pictured after being split) has evolved, now topped with a thick strip of tender, beautifully caramelized bacon. The dressing packs plenty of flavour: lots of garlic, a subtle anchovy umami, a touch of sweetness that may come from sherry, and a zingy finish that tastes like a generous helping of horseradish. Even split between two people, it's still an impressively hearty starter.

The dry-aged bone-in rib steak ($108 for 16oz) remains Barberian's signature dish and was fantastic as always. Charcoal grilling lends it a subtle smokiness, while the beautifully caramelized crust gives way to a perfectly medium-rare centre. Their signature seasoning adds plenty of flavour without becoming overly salty. Compared to previous visits, the bone seemed slightly smaller, but the beef itself was every bit as flavourful and wonderfully tender.

Still, it was the roast prime rib of beef ($96) that had my eyes popping. The towering, nearly two-inch-thick slice made me wonder whether I'd accidentally been served a double portion. There's no choice of doneness with the prime rib, and mine was a touch rarer than I normally prefer, but it remained incredibly tender. The intensely seasoned crust was delicious enough to break off and enjoy with each bite. I actually preferred pairing it with a smear of horseradish and some of that seasoning over the accompanying red wine demi-glace, which leaned a little too sweet for my taste. Give me a simple au jus any day.

As if the portion weren't generous enough, the prime rib also comes with the rib bone, a satisfyingly meaty beef bone, and a massive Yorkshire pudding that's wonderfully airy with an incredibly crisp exterior. Every steak also includes your choice of French fries or a baked potato. We both opted for the latter: a fist-sized fluffy potato finished tableside with your choice of sour cream, bacon bits, and feta. While the sour cream is a classic topping, the feta adds a creamy saltiness that works surprisingly well.

Needless to say, you'll leave stuffed. In our case, we packed up enough prime rib to make sandwiches for two the following evening. Fortunately, I had wisely saved room for dessert. The New York style cheesecake ($22.50) was beautifully balanced: rich without being heavy, dense yet silky smooth, with a thin crust that added just enough savoury contrast. The fresh strawberry sauce complemented the cheesecake perfectly without overwhelming it with sweetness. Blueberry and chocolate are also available if you prefer.

Having operated since 1959, it's easy to understand Barberian's enduring appeal. They know what they do well and don't overcomplicate it. Rather than relying on technology and automation, they rely on experienced people who genuinely know their craft.

Case in point: when we told the sommelier we'd like to switch from champagne to a Cabernet Sauvignon with our steaks, she simply acknowledged the request and assured us it would arrive at the right time. Sure enough, the wine appeared just minutes before the mains. Throughout the evening, the staff quietly monitored our pace, ensuring the steaks weren't rushed but arrived about 10 minutes after we finished the salad. Barberian's remains a well-oiled machine where the front and back of house work together seamlessly.

In a city where many steakhouses are chasing trends, Barberian's remains confidently old school. The recipes, the service, and even the reservation book remind you that sometimes experience beats innovation, especially when the steaks are this good.

In a nutshell... 

• Must order: flan, three milk cake
• Just skip: nothing

Matu is a dream for meat lovers, with a menu centred entirely around Australian wagyu. Nothing showcases that commitment better than the Matu dinner ($87 per person; minimum 2 persons), a multi-course meal that highlights different cuts of the cow in every single dish.

Things begin with a 24-hour bone broth shooter, looking like a glass of gravy but tasting like concentrated umami. Rich, warm, and deeply comforting, it’s remarkable how delicious it is despite containing only broth.

The steak tartare follows with freshly chopped beef, egg yolk, and what the menu describes as a “Japanese accent,” possibly togarashi. Whatever the seasoning blend is, it works beautifully. The tartare is incredibly flavourful despite its minimalist presentation. Thin, lightly toasted crostini accompany it without overpowering the beef, though I did ask for extra slices just to finish every bite.

The eight-hour braised beef cheek was one of my favourite courses. So tender and moist that you could practically eat it with a spoon, the richness is balanced by a silky celeriac purée that ties everything together beautifully. It’s the kind of dish that immediately makes you want another serving.

Even their ‘47’ salad leans heavily into the restaurant’s beef-first philosophy, featuring more steak than greens. The 3-ounce centre-cut filet was impressively tender for such a lean cut, and although it arrived rarer than I’d typically order, it worked perfectly. At Matu, diners aren’t asked how they’d like their steak cooked. The kitchen prepares it to the chef’s specifications, trusting the quality of the beef and their technique.

As for the romaine leaves underneath, they’re coated in a signature dressing that tastes remarkably similar to Caesar, despite being made without dairy or eggs, then finished with a generous showering of Parmigiano.

After all that beef, you’d think sharing a 12-ounce ribeye would feel excessive. Somehow, it didn’t. The steak is prepared simply, allowing the quality of the wagyu to speak for itself, with crispy grilled broccolini providing a garlicky contrast alongside it. A small dish of salt is presented at the beginning of the meal, though Matu intentionally keeps the seasoning restrained. Personally, I appreciated the lighter touch and never felt the need to add more.

Dessert arrives in the form of Scott’s flourless chocolate cake ($12), dense and rich without being overly sweet beyond a dusting of powdered sugar. After an entire menu devoted to beef, I almost found myself jokingly wondering whether wagyu somehow made its way into dessert too.

With its dark wood interiors, Matu certainly looks like a steakhouse, but the lively playlist and relaxed atmosphere keep it from feeling stuffy. You could comfortably walk in wearing a suit or a T-shirt and feel equally welcome. The staff are friendly and attentive, and the meal unfolds at a well-paced rhythm from start to finish. All hail the wagyu.

Overall mark - 8 out of 10

If you’re an indecisive person, don’t go to Arisu. Their menu will start giving you heart palpitations as you realize you may never make it to the halfway point. Korean barbeque, Korean dishes of many kinds, sushi, and even more are displayed in full glory. Move over Pickle Barrel, this menu has you beat.

Let me try to help you out here. With cooking stations at every table, Korean barbeque is a natural choice. Go for the porky and piggy set for two ($59.99) that offers three cuts: pork belly, shoulder blade, and honeycomb (like pork belly but more tender). Grill up the pork and tuck slices into the lettuce wraps along with sauces and a bit of the scallion soy.

The set even comes with a host of sides: a puffy egg custard that needs to be eaten quickly; corn smothered in cheese and butter; a host of traditional banchan, steamed rice, and even fresh vegetables for grilling. You’ll have all the bases covered.

You’ll want to start off with a set before adding on extras like chicken ($18.99) to Korean barbeque. There’s not much that arrives with it, just a piece of marinated chicken leg. After all, to miss out on the steamed egg custard is a shame.

If you’re dining as one or don’t like the idea of having to cook for yourself, order Arisu’s porterhouse steak ($41.99 special price; regular is $46.99). Obviously, it wouldn’t rival a steakhouse, but I found it was prepared better than HK café places – the steak was a thick cut and cooked to a rare / medium rare. And it’s a hefty portion complete with mashed potatoes, grilled vegetables, and a bowl of spicy tofu soup.

For those dining as a group, getting a bunch of dishes to share is ideal. The seafood pancake ($35.99 for large) was one of the better ones I’ve had - the batter airy and pan-fried forming tons of crispy edges. Large chunks of seafood, scallions, and vegetables are strewn throughout so there’s a great ratio of pancake to filling.

The cheese tteokbokki ($31.99 for large) consists of soft chewy rice sticks and fish balls tossed in a mild spicy sauce (Arisu also offers a spicier version). The rice cakes are surprisingly delicate (perhaps they use the frozen versus dried variety) and being covered in cheese gives the dish an almost creamy finish.

Only the fried chicken breast ($33.99 for large) was a bit disappointing. I liked that it was freshly prepared to the point it was burn-your-mouth hot. But it also wasn’t overly exciting… a simple salt and pepper seasoning with the breading almost too light so it wasn’t very crunchy.

Unlike other Korean barbeque places along Bloor, Arisu also wasn’t too busy, which is surprising because their food was decent and the service great. Perhaps it’s because they’re further away from the bar area, but our Friday visit was relatively quiet, and they could even take walk-in clients.

The separators used in the dining room, provided some privacy to allow our group to get boisterous without becoming disruptive. After all, it takes time to order, so you can get through a bottle of soju before a lick of food arrives. Who knows, two bottles in and you may just be ordering the full menu.