Showing posts with label tasting menu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tasting menu. Show all posts

Casa Paco's Tasting Menu (Toronto)

There's something about Little Italy that still draws me in after all these years. It has an effortlessly lively energy where everyone seems to be gathered on a patio. During FIFA, the neighbourhood becomes even more animated, even on nights when no one is actually playing.

Tucked just off bustling College Street is Casa Paco, a charming restaurant that feels like you're being welcomed into someone's home. They now offer two tasting menus: a more elaborate chef's menu in the dining room and a shorter experience at the bar.

The five-course chef’s menu ($145 per person) offers plenty of food, enough to leave you fully satisfied. Still, the restaurant also offers a few additions if you want to augment the experience.

We added their signature Rubia Gallega ($28), a labour-intensive dish that Chef Chinery and Chef Bragagnolo have considered removing from the menu more than once, only to keep it because diners love it so much.

Using Ontario wagyu, they cure the beef in house for nine months until it develops an incredible natural sweetness that's unlike anything I've tasted. These paper-thin slices are finished with creamy burrata and fresh truffle for an extra touch of decadence. Layered onto the airy crackers, everything comes together in one cohesive bite that's sweet, savoury, creamy, crunchy, and packed with umami.

Oh, and those darker hues along the edges of the meat? Rest assured, it's not mold. Rather, it's from the truffle wash they use to finish the beef.

The chef's menu begins with a trio of snacks to whet the appetite. The meaty boquerones started to lean a little fishy when eaten on their own, but the tangy sea asparagus balanced everything out, adding a lovely fresh crunch against the white anchovy. It also paired beautifully with the tomato bread, which was exquisite thanks to beautifully ripe tomatoes.

The only bite I didn't really sample was the octopus carpaccio, which I've sadly lost my taste for after learning more about these brilliant, misunderstood creatures. My husband, however, assured me it was delicious.

Seafood reigns supreme on Casa Paco's menu, and we were lucky enough to visit while the last of the B.C. spot prawns were still available. As always, they were wonderfully sweet with that firm yet delicate texture that makes them so sought after. They're served with a well-seasoned chilled baby gem soup that looks like wheatgrass but tastes nothing like it. I only wish there had been more of the smoked cucumber, which added such a wonderful crunch against the silky purée.

Even their heirloom tomato salad gets a kiss of the sea with cubes of bluefin tuna scattered throughout. I'll admit, I never imagined pairing tuna with strawberries, and I'm not sure I'd do it again. It's not that the combination is bad, but the two ingredients don't really complement each other either. Something lighter, like scallops, might have been a better match.

It almost felt like Casa Paco was serving all my favourite ingredients, as my eyes immediately lit up when the zucchini blossom arrived, something I always look forward to eating but would never attempt to make myself. Stuffed with a scallop and lobster mousse, the blossom can be enjoyed on its own or elevated even further with the intensely flavourful lobster emulsion, which tastes like a lobster bisque crossed with hollandaise.

Before we could even finish the dish, a plate of socarrat arrived. The rice cooked in a seafood stock and enhanced with a the flavourful oily sobrassada.

Once it was scraped up, we’re told to take the toasted crispy rice and mix it into the remaining lobster emulsion. What a fantastic idea. It immediately made me regret not leaving more sauce behind. It was so good that it convinced me I need to return for Casa Paco's Sunday paella nights.

For the main course, diners choose between a fish or steak to share. We kept the seafood theme going with the Dover sole, which is carefully deboned, brined, grilled, and filleted for sharing. It arrives with a Basque pil-pil sauce made from the fish bones, cod, and aromatics before being emulsified with olive oil into a silky, almost velvety sauce. Such a shame the dish wasn’t accompanied by a piece of toasted bread for mopping up every last drop.

Having been brined, I found the fish just a touch salty on its own. Thankfully, bites of the accompanying radicchio salad balanced things nicely. Either the vinaigrette or another ingredient lent the salad a subtle licorice flavour that I normally wouldn't enjoy, yet somehow it really worked here.

Before dessert, a simple raspberry ice palate cleanser arrives.

Which leads me to point out that the chef's menu doesn't include dessert. Consequently, if you're craving something sweet, you'll want to add one to finish the meal.

The coffee and cardamom cheesecake ($18) is more than enough for two to share. Casa Paco's Basque cheesecake is lightly burnt, fairly dense, yet wonderfully creamy. The coffee flavour comes through clearly, while the cardamom leaves a subtle warmth that gently tingles on the finish. Very interesting indeed.

For an even richer ending, the chocolate and olive oil truffle ($16) is a solid log of silky dark chocolate ganache that practically melts on the tongue. It's only lightly sweetened, making it surprisingly balanced, and pairs beautifully with the cheesecake if you want to mix and match bites.

Unlike the aperitif selection, the digestif menu isn't printed because their amaro selection of roughly 100 bottles is constantly changing. You'll simply have to trust Gary Danaie, their sommelier, to find the right one for you. After my husband mentioned that he normally enjoys cognac, grappa, and Scotch, Gary recommended the Ximenez Spinola 2018 Battonage ($22). He absolutely nailed it. The spirit carried the richness of cognac, a touch of grappa's bite, and somehow finished with lingering caramel sweetness.

Since joining the restaurant in June 2025, Gary has dramatically expanded the wine program from my previous visit. Focusing on Spanish and Italian wines, he has an infectious passion for explaining every bottle. We sampled several grape varieties we'd never even heard of before and thoroughly enjoyed the experience ($85 for the wine pairing).

Even more impressive is that Gary is the restaurant's only employee. The other four people you'll see working throughout the evening are all owners and founders: Chef Chinery and Chef Bragagnolo in the kitchen, Tommy Conrad behind the bar, and Ailbhe McMahon leading the front of house.

All five jump in wherever needed, serving dishes, clearing plates, checking on guests, and keeping the restaurant running. The downside is that, with only one seating each evening, dinner unfolds at a leisurely pace. Our five-course menu with an add-on and dessert stretched to three-and-a-half hours. Antsy diners who struggle to sit still have been warned.

Restaurants often talk about hospitality, but Casa Paco genuinely lives it. With every owner contributing to the experience and Gary guiding diners through an exceptional wine program, the restaurant feels remarkably personal. It's the sort of place you settle into for the night rather than simply dine at.

Overall mark - 8 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 50c Clinton Street


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

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Curryish Tavern (Toronto)


Should I blame it on the FIFA match that day, or is that just an excuse for poor inventory management? Either way, what restaurant runs out of prosecco and rosé in the middle of summer? Without bubbly in hand, dinner at Curryish Tavern was already off to a shaky start.

Their tasting menu ($98 per person) revolves around one featured ingredient each month and, for June, it was mango. As someone who loves the fruit, I was intrigued to see how the kitchen would incorporate it into savoury dishes beyond the usual mango salad.

Dinner begins with a foie gras tart topped with mango murabba. The unripe green mangoes are preserved with sugar and spices, creating a sweet-and-tart chutney that is a burst of flavour. In fact, it’s almost too much, overpowering the goose liver mousse beneath it. A lighter hand would have worked better, although the acidity does help cut through the richness of the foie gras.

Next comes the raw mango and smashed cucumber salad, the most recognizable use of mango on the menu. The peanut dressing adds a creamy savoury note, while the spicy oil gives the cucumbers a nice kick. Fresh dill brightens everything and the crunchy pods scattered throughout add a satisfying textural contrast.

The Kesari mango bhel was a little harder to understand. The crunchy rice cake topped with a mango pakora became too starchy and heavy. The dish would have benefited from a protein like grilled shrimp or tuna tartare, or even something lighter like a mango corn salad or paneer topped with grilled mango. Even making the puffed rice crisp thinner would have helped since it was difficult to cut through and properly combine with the other ingredients.

Still, it was far better than the black cod ceviche, which ended up being the weakest dish of the evening. The overly sweet mango sauce completely dominated the plate, the fish was minced rather than diced, and overall, it just didn’t taste especially fresh.

Thankfully, the meal recovered with the coconut mango chicken curry served with a hot crispy flaky parotta. The mango was more restrained, adding a subtle brightness instead of overwhelming the dish. We agreed it was good but still behind other chicken curries we’ve had elsewhere.

What made the evening more frustrating was the pacing. Despite the restaurant being nearly empty - we were one of three tables during Friday dinner service - the meal moved painfully slowly. Many of the dishes also felt like they could have been prepped well ahead of time, making the three-hour meal even more puzzling.

By the time dessert arrived, I was admittedly checked out. The Alphonso mango shrikhand on chirote was forgettable, tasting mostly like yogurt spooned over a firmer puff pastry.

As much as I love mango, this tasting menu simply wasn’t for me. Too many dishes leaned into the same sweet-and-tangy flavour profile, so by the end of the meal everything started to blur together. Curryish Tavern deserves credit for building an entire tasting menu around mangoes, but the execution felt uneven. By the end of the night, I was craving contrast more than another variation of mango.

Overall mark - 5 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 783 Queen St West


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

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Radici Project (Toronto)

European tasting menus that incorporate Japanese influences to play into food trends or Michelin inspector palettes don’t impress me. It’s the reason I had reservations of trying Radici Project at the beginning. Until I heard the restaurant was started by Kayo Ito, a sake sommelier, and Italian Chef Emiliano Del Frate who also happened to be married. Now this is a mashup I can get behind.

Their immersive tasting menu ($160 per person) begins with an amuse bouche trio including a mocktail palette cleanser that looks fruity but finishes savoury thanks to the garum butter swirled into the drink.

The drink prepares the taste buds for their crab takoyaki that incorporates unused portions of the crab head (in a dish to come) captured in a soft fluffy batter with bonito flakes adding an extra touch of umami. I found the concept of the savoury waffle too similar (and not as tasty) and wish the kitchen used the dollops of creamy burrata and crisp kimchi in something different.

If you don’t like dealing with the crustacean, Radici’s crab dish is ideal as the sweet crab meat is removed from the shell and paired with an almond foam and caviar. What’s finished in a few bites must take a while to prepare but makes for a great start.

The restaurant follows a zero-waste philosophy that you see throughout the meal. So, when their supplier, Acadian Sturgeon and Caviar Inc., started smoking the fish they killed to harvest caviar, the restaurant knew they needed to feature the product on their menu. And what a wonderful idea it was to pair the slice of smoked sturgeon with their crusty airy sourdough and silky whipped butter! The meaty fish tastes like a lean country ham so really works. I’d love to see more restaurants swap out sturgeon for swine. 

I was intrigued by how curing duck breast in beeswax would taste. It seems to condense its flavours as the gaminess was more pronounced, which was why the kitchen paired it with a slice of preserved plum and a pickled vegetable (?), both elements cutting the richness and gaminess of the duck.

The karaage e papacelle is a great fusion dish. It was influenced by Kayo who grew up eating fried chicken, which Chef Emiliano notes isn’t popular in his Italian village… when he ate chicken, it was usually roasted and served with potatoes. So, he decided to marry their cultures by deboning a chicken wing and stuffing it with roasted potatoes. Served with a mascarpone roasted red pepper sauce it’s deliciously addictive, the fluffy soft potato contrasting nicely with the crunchy and juicy fried chicken.

At Radici, pink dishes do not signify frilly and light creations. The beet tajarin tastes like a rich seafood pasta thanks to garum butter studded with smoked caviar. The pasta was done beautifully and left me longing for just a few more forkfuls.

If food scraps taste this good, I say give us more. The cappellacci is stuffed with veal trimmings and served in a burnt onion dashi made from various vegetable scraps. I can still taste the delicious broth that flooded my mouth with flavours, including the ingenious idea of adding small ginger slivers and sumac at the bottom so it ends on a bright note.

You can’t go wrong with halibut and maitake, one poached and the other grilled creating a creamy smoky dish. Yet, it’s the peperone crusco oil that really wakes up the fish adding a bright zing of spice that shone through the two richer elements.  

We’re told to try the veal by itself and leave the portion topped with a cilantro flower last. I was waiting for a huge pop of floral or citrus, but it didn’t taste that different. If anything, the sparkling red wine paired with the dish surprised me more. It paired well with the tender beef and silky sweet smoked parsnip puree.

In fact, I’d recommend going with their drink pairings. The mix wine and sake flight ($70 for 4 drinks) complimented the meal and incorporated such different drinks including a yeasty sparkling sake, orange wine, a white, and the aforementioned sparkling red. 

Dinner ended with a delicious honey cake topped with camomile gel and whipped cream. It tasted so light and fluffy adorned with honey and buttery cookie elements to give the dish extra pops of flavours and textures.

I’ve been lucky to have dined at many Toronto restaurants before they were granted a Michelin star and getting a reservation became difficult. I’m predicting that Radici Project will be a star contender. Their food is inventive and delicious but improving their plating aesthetics and tweaking the service is needed. It’s small things like ensuring the drink pairing is on the table before the food arrives, which can be easily solved by allowing the sommelier to be dedicated to drinks and not also serving food.

At least they have the welcoming and warm environment down. And I enjoyed the whimsical touches like the Jenga block cutlery holder that became a necessity when the wooden ones they sourced weren’t big enough to hold the cutlery. Since Jenga is a go-to game for Kayo, they bought a box, and it’s works beautifully.

As the Radici Project continues, I can’t wait to see how it morphs and grows. 

Overall mark - 9 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 588 College Street


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

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Visa Infinite Dinner: Alder Ft. Fat Rabbit (Toronto)

It was an excellent idea to start off the evening in Evangeline, the Ace Hotel’s rooftop patio, as it created a casual beginning. A tray of cava awaited as I exited the elevator and while mingling in a room of strangers, it felt like I was there for a dinner party.

Trays of canapés flowed throughout including a delicious rabbit croquette wrapped in a green goddess salad leaf. The pea and strawberry tart was sweet, tangy, and savoury but a bit too floral so the jamon Iberico became lost. Many dashed for the oysters topped with caviar and crème fraiche, alas once I got one mine was gritty. Yet, I was so chill and relaxed that I didn’t care nor wanted to take photos… at last, I ate first.

Drinks were flowing with more cava and two Herradura tequila cocktails available around the hour. The strawberry and shisho Cointreau mix sounded refreshing but was too sweet for my taste. As was the “cabana cocktail”, a concoction of tequila, cacao bitters, vanilla, coconut oil, toasted coconut, and wildflower honey.

But at least it got everyone buzzing. By the time the Herradura rep explain their logo, an inverted horseshoe, represented pouring out the last drop of luck for their customers, I felt like Don Draper was in the room.

Dinner was served downstairs in Alder and soon generous pours of Pearl Morissette wines came by. It made my evening hearing they were supplying the drinks as the limited bottles rarely circulate outside their winery aside from some Toronto restaurants.

Alder’s first dish was a hit. The Hokkaido sea scallop and sea urchin featured two barely cooked through poached scallops, shaved in half and served with smoked buttermilk that had a tartness that’s like adding lemon to seafood but finishes with a rich creamy touch. The uni was flown out the day before for the dinner, balancing the dish with sweetness.

Fat Rabbit’s beef tartare included honey and golden raisins, which gave it a sugary taste. The addition of pickled vegetables helped bring out some acidity, but it was the mint and cilantro blossoms that added a brightness that impressed.

I can see why they left the tartare less salted as the breaded and deep-fried Guernsey Girl cheese it sat on top was savoury. It was just a waste as it wasn’t hot, so the dairy felt hard and rubbery. A great idea to feature local ingredients from the Upper Canada Cheese Company, just not showcasing it at its best. 

Alder’s lobster raviolo was so good. The bisque-like sauce was bit salty, but the pasta was cooked to perfection and stuffed with large chunks of lobster, each bite bursting with flavour.

While the roasted pork collar was meaty and almost like a pork loin, it was a tad tough and likely would be better cooked as slices rather than a huge steak. Perhaps Fat Rabbit wanted something that would hold up against the spicy aji amarillo sauce? We all agreed the pancetta wrapped shrimp stole the show and would have been happy with two of these served with more vegetables.

A generous slice of coconut cream pie finished the meal; its crust made from toasted coconut meringue so it’s crumbly and a bit nutty. Despite not being able to finish my pork, I happily consumed the entire slice.

Since hearing about the Fat Rabbit, I’ve always wanted to try the restaurant. This Visa Infinite dinner was a nice compromise before heading out to St. Catherines. Chef Zach Smith also announced a second restaurant opening sometime in the late summer or fall. The fat rabbit becomes a warren. 

Overall mark - 7 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 51 Camden Street


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

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Lucie (Toronto)


This is going to sound strange, but Lucie’s hospitality reminds me of an immigrant parents’ love towards their children. The care they show may not be excessively warm, attentive, or frequent, but deep down you can sense they care and will nurture where it matters most.

For example, they ensure you don’t make any rash decisions while hungry. Before you’re even presented with a menu or asked about drink preferences, Lucie ensures you’re hydrated with water and fed.

A structure of canapés is presented that pays tribute to Chef Arnaud Bloquel’s grandfather who tended to the family farm. After his morning tasks, he’d sit under an apricot tree enjoying the fruits of his labor. And hence, our first bites contain ingredients that could be found on a farm:

  • A tube made from crispy potato filled with duck terrine and tartare. It’s a bite mixed with flavours and textures, awfully delicate but hearty as well.
  • The thumb of toasted brioche with radish and cheese wasn’t as great but offered an earthy rustic flavour that screamed of rural life.
  • And lastly, a sweet pea tart that looks light but covers a bed of herring mousse, so you’re greeted with a smoky briny punch. If your interest and taste buds weren’t present, they will be after these first bites.

Now let’s start talking menus. Once I saw the words ‘beef Wellington’, I knew the L’Experience Pithivier tasting menu ($160 per person) was the way to go. We decided against the wine pairing ($80 for half pairing and $130 for full) and treated ourselves to a glass of champagne instead ($45 for a glass of Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut).

The champagne cart was pushed over and the glasses poured with efficiency and without fan fare. Once whisked away, I looked down and was delighted by the procession of bubbles that rose from the specially dimpled glasses. The sommelier didn’t need to point out the feature, like an immigrant parent he allowed us to discover the special touches ourselves.

Not long after ordering an amuse bouche arrives: a dome filled with refreshing trout tartare topped with a vibrant basil sorbet that’s unexpectedly creamy and adds a wonderful element to the dish.

With a choice of two starters, the l’asperge verte offered me a taste of hopefully the first fruits of Ontario asparagus. The tender spears were lightly barbecued and adorned with a rich egg yolk sauce and lemon foam. On the side, a tart that’s described as being hazelnut based and topped with caviar - an atypical combination that works and was flavourful but light.

Before the main, we’re presented with a Campari sorbet that serves as a palette cleanser but also a mini cocktail. It’s a smart format, as I rather liked the drink before moving into a bolder red wine for the rest of the meal.

The whole wheat baguette didn’t seem exciting, just very rustic looking. Yet, as the butter cover was lifted, I could tell we’re in for a treat seeing the shiny golden hue. Sure enough, the butter’s made in-house and has a rich creamy finish, only made better when slathered onto the warm, hot, crusty baguette.

Upon seeing our empty plates, our server asks if we’d like more bread. Exhibiting some self control, I decided against it but did keep the plate in case another hunk of baguette was needed after the main. Thankfully, I didn’t fill up on more carbs as the le pithivier was huge!

Cut tableside, the golden puff pastry revealed two beef slices sandwiching foie gras. Topped with duxelles and a thin spinach layer, it’s a decadent beef Wellington. Because of the various layers and the fat from the foie gras, it was also extremely juicy and so flavourful that it really didn’t need the concentrated beef jus.

The hefty main was paired with a king mushroom salad, pickled shimeji mushrooms, and an herb custard. I really needed these blasts of acid and freshness to cut through the beef Wellington’s richness.

At this point, I was stuffed, even leaving portions of the puff pastry untouched. Yet, as the la griotte arrived, I still took a bite. At first glance, I thought it’d be a sweet I’d leave behind as chocolate and fruit (especially cherry) is detestable. But the light Morello cherry centre complimented the Armagnac foam nicely and the crispy toasted coconut nibs added a nuttiness that made it less cordial cherry and more like a boozy Eton mess.

Not only was the le citron olive oil cake pretty but also tasty with a thin cake base working  to keep the creamy citrus custard together. Lemon desserts can sometimes be too sour or too sweet, Lucie’s was nicely balanced and refreshing. On the side, a frozen lemon adorned with a lemon rosemary gelato, as if the tart wasn’t already enough.

For those who love chocolate the le chocolate noir is a firebomb of Valrhona Guanaja dark chocolate. The spiky flower encapsulating passionfruit and topped with a mango sorbet.  

The last arrival was a jewelry box of mignardises, each one deliciously different. We’re told to pop the entire chocolate ravioli into our mouth, but it doesn’t ooze out like water, rather like a luscious mousse.  The macaron was so delicate that I could hardly grasp it without it starting to crumble creating a bite that’s a cross between cake and macaron, the lightest and moistest one I’ve ever tried. And lastly, a chocolate cookie with a ganache centre and a nutty finish.

Lucie is a hidden gem I’m almost afraid to tell people about. Stumbling in with a last minute, day of reservation on a Saturday, we even saw walk-ins being seated… although the dining room eventually filled. With such delicious dishes I’m surprised it isn’t busier. Oh well, more beef for me. 

Overall mark - 9 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 100 Yonge Street


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

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Ficoa (Toronto)

Ficoa’s 8-course tasting menu ($120 per person) aims to feature Latin American dishes with an elevated flair.  They also operate under an ethos of achieving “zero waste” in using leftovers from an ingredient within other dishes, such as in a sauce or garnish.

The meal started with a flavour bomb, a celeriac truffle soup where the root vegetable was pureed into a creamy finish and topped with an intense fermented chili that added a delicious kick. Table side, they spoon on a truffle foam that was way too salty but gave it a decadent touch.

Since the soup was so intensely flavoured the trio of small bites that followed seemed tasteless in comparison:

  • I would have thought the braised short rib empanada would be rich and hearty topped with queso cotija and crema. Yet, if anything what stood out the most was the corn masa shell, which was crispy, airy, and light.
  • If you like arancini you’ll love molote that takes mashed plantain and stuffs it with cheese, then deep fries the ball. It’s sweet and gooey making an interesting bite. It just needed more of the smoky salsa tatemada to bring out the savoury aspect of the canapé.
  • The seabass ceviche tostada was nicely balanced, not overly acidic and incorporating creamier elements like cotija cheese and a dollop of salmon roe. In fact, I wish the tasting menu featured more seafood instead of the plethora of fowl.

It starts with the duck confit taco, which I had high hopes for as I love duck confit. Instead, the small palm sized shell made it messy to eat and the actual confit feel flat, seemingly sous vide rather than slow cooked in fat to give it richness. The habanero salsa was a good idea holding up against the fowl, if only the duck was more pronounced.

This is followed by turkey enmolada where its base seems like a rehash of the taco. The sous vide turkey didn’t taste that different from the duck, but the shell was much bigger and smothered in a fiery almendrado mole.  My advice, keep this dish and change the taco into something vegetable (cactus, mushroom, and/or corn) or seafood based instead.

Even the final main features chicken. The mishmash of an individual plate and family style dishes initially threw me off for the last savoury course. We’re each presented with a plate of flat iron wagyu that was a bit overcooked but topped with a vibrant chimichurri. Once again, the seasoning was off as all the elements on the plate were heavily salted. In comparison, the family style dishes were rather neutral; a blessing as the Mexican rice and salad helped pacify any saltiness.

Despite having my fill with fowl, the citrus chicken is a keeper. I liked that they deboned the dark meat to make a rullar. Plus, the citrus, chili, and herb seasoning created a great summery taste. And if you’re hungry, you won’t be after the main as each duo received a sizeable plate of chicken to share.

Up until this point, I haven’t mentioned their wine pairing ($80 per person), which featured a mix of lighter European wines that went nicely with the spiciness of the food. Just don’t expect a sommelier level of expertise with the pairings as the hostess also does triple duty as being a server and drink specialist. Still, despite not always knowing much about the winery itself (we were excited when told a bottle originated from the Maldives, only to find it’s from Italy) her choices for each course were solid. And knowing we weren’t a fan of sweet wines, even the dessert option was tamer having a sweet edge without becoming sugary.

The dessert wine paired particularly well with the mango sorbet palette cleanser that was whimsically made into a lollipop that you can dip into Tajin to add a savoury element.

The tres leches de café dessert was a hit; the moist milky cake incorporated a hit of coffee and chocolate pieces creating a tiramisu-like dessert. Who doesn’t like tres leches and tiramisu

And to end, a plate of petit fours featuring a delicious crispy bite of chocolate churro that must be enlarged, a buttery delicate alfajaro, and a moist crumbly classic cocada that’s ideal for those who love coconut.

As tasting menus go, Ficoa’s needs work to create more variety and properly ordering dishes so that intensely flavourful ones aren’t served before more neutral features. The format has already changed a couple of times since their opening in 2024, so who knows if this will be the last rendition.

The middling food aside, I appreciate Ficoa’s dedication to service. Due to miscommunications, I had to increase my reservation at the time of the meal, and they were able to accommodate. They even printed an extra copy of the customized menu for the additional guest, which was a nice touch.

Plus, its one of the first restaurants that builds the wine pairing around a guest’s preferences. A pairing without chardonnay? Muchas gracias!

Overall mark - 6 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 585 College Street


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

Other Gastro World posts similar to this: