There’s been significant press for LSL (Leroy, Saito and Le Squer) so my post isn’t going to re-hash the pedigree of the restaurant with three Michelin chefs at it’s helm. If you’re interested in learning more about these aspects, read Toronto Life, which wrote a very in-depth article.
Even before stepping into the restaurant, I received a text from
Matthieu, their maître d’, inquiring about celebrations or food aversions. It’s
reminiscent of an Eleven Madison experience, except Matthieu’s message was
punctuated with an emoticon so there was a polished but friendly-casual quality
to the interaction.
The experience continued at the restaurant, each team member introducing
themselves by name as they welcomed, took our jackets, and led us to our seats.
The introductions and casual banter put us at east to strike up conversations… the
once quiet dining room was soon buzzing by the end of the first course.
Their 9-course tasting menu ($680 per person) started with a trio of small
bites that we’re told to eat from the front to back:
- Beginning with a ginger and citrus Campari foam that burst in the mouth. It’s not overpowering but did wake up the palette and cleanse it for the second.
- The hairy crab tart’s briny flavour screamed of ocean (in a good way) so the crustacean was highlighted in the bite. We go from sour to salty.
- Lastly, a sweet bite with a generous portion of foie gras sandwiched between crunchy coffee crisps and topped with passionfruit jelly. Imagine having a really decadent sweet-and-salty candy bar.
LSL doesn’t keep you waiting for their signature dish: a
peeled Amela tomato stuffed with finely diced tuna and topped with
Kristal caviar. It’s something Chef Didier Leroy created for a dinner with
Yo-Yo Ma that made him cry. It looks deceptively simple and features expensive
ingredients (an $8 tomato for one) that gets diners excited. Having tried the
caviar by itself, the ingredient solo would have been very pungent but once
combined with the fruit and fish became amazingly fresh and light.
That natural sweetness continues with the Hokkaido scallop
crudo, a dish that sounds Japanese but has a unique European flair.
The scallop was meaty and fresh, topped with top-shelf uni flown in from
Japan. It makes for a lusciously creamy bite. Yet, what surprised me most were
the crunchy bits of dehydrated scallop reduction that gave the dish crunch and
an umami touch.
My favourite plate was the crispy scale amadai
where the fish was flash fried, so the meat becomes flaky, and the scales create
a crunchy topping. It arrived with a warm ball of brioche that was perfect for
wiping up every drop of the delicious beurre blanc. Good to the last
drop.
The duo of squab was a close second place, the breast
cooked beautifully with its tender meat and crispy skin. Sitting on a layer of
rich pâté and crispy toast, the fowl becomes a sweet and delicate contrast. I
don’t know how I feel about the pâté, it felt like too much. I feel the squab
would work better on its own or with something more neutral like fish liver
mousse and crispy potato.
I’m glad they brought out moist napkins and welcomed us to
eat the squab leg with our hands. The savoury crispy bite was a star, and if I
were at home, I’d probably continue nibbling on the bone to get at all the
flavours. And not a drop of the citrus red wine jus was wasted given it’s
paired with a heavenly crispy baguette.
How did the chefs prepare the rack for the seared lamb?
The lollipop was so big that it must have been carefully carved to ensure all
the adjacent lamb stayed on one bone. Regardless, LSL knows how to prepare meat
well, the lamb was tender, juicy, and perfectly seasoned. I liked that the
chefs showed restraint with the salt and allowed the sauces to flavour -
mustard, black garlic puree, and a jalapeno sauce. I thoroughly enjoyed the accompanying
crunchy relish and had every bite of it.
Some of the refreshing relish would pair nicely with the goat
cheese tarte. Other diners were raving about the pastry – all the melted
cheese, a buttery tart shell, and the Périgord black truffle shavings didn’t
hurt. Indeed, it’s a rich finish (likely
a stand-in for the cheese course), but I felt it lacked something. After all,
it’s just cheese. Perhaps a larger portion of salad, a creamy element within
the tarte, or maybe more accompaniments. Something more than just melted
cheese.
A trilogy of grapefruit didn’t sound like the most
interesting dessert but was a great finish… especially following the decadent tarte.
Layers of citrusy sugar crisps sandwich grapefruit and other sorbets to create
a refreshing, not overly sweet, but satisfying ending. LSL marinates the
grapefruit to remove bitter elements, and you’re left with a great winter
dessert providing a boost of vitamin C.
The mignardises arrive with glass of tea
that’s tempered perfectly so it doesn’t scald but is still hot and flavourful.
It’s paired with a just-out-of-the-oven madeleine that’s oh so airy. And after
a delicious bite, when you’re disappointed it wasn’t larger, you get a second
one – Halleluiah! The raspberry and chocolate tarte was crispy and well
balanced, but it’s the last jammy kumquat bite that’s so surprising. A stream
of sunshine floods the mouth that finishes savoury. Is summer around the
corner?
We each left with a little box of treats: nutty almond cake
bites and more madeleines. Great for a late-night snack, a sweet for breakfast,
or a nibble to accompany an afternoon tea.
All the wine pairings ($360 per person) balanced out
the food, never fighting to be the star but complimenting it well. At one point
I was falling behind with four glasses in front of me but was assured not to rush.
Saving a taste for the other dishes isn’t a bad idea as it’s always nice to
contrast different flavours.
And if you have any questions about the food, Chef Didier
Leroy is on hand the entire night taking time to chat one-on-one. He’s like a homeowner
welcoming a guest to the table: building a rapport, while doing a huge push to explain
why LSL is Michelin worthy. It’s as if there are Michelin inspectors sitting
amongst the diners and we’re going to get the hard sell.
At times, it became awkward. It’s one thing to be proud of the team, the luxe ingredients being imported, or even highlight the special touches like always having Didier at the helm and the handwritten affirmations in the bathroom. But, once we get to comparing LSL to other Michelin starred restaurants and always referencing the rating agency, it becomes too much.
Personally, I have no doubt LSL will be presented a star, if
not two, in 2025. I would just encourage the team to let it happen naturally and
focus on what they’re already doing well: they’re such a welcoming restaurant
that makes me want to return; and the food was inventive but approachable, respectful
to the ingredients themselves. The star(s) will come, no campaigning required.
Address: 2066 Avenue Road
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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