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| Special thanks to Parv for so many of the photos in this post |
You’ll find COYA on a busy cul de sac of restaurants at
Dubai’s Four Seasons. After getting through the queue of cars being dropped off
with the valet and the throng of people making their way to the many
establishments in the area, the actual restaurant is a welcoming serene environment.
The colourful bar and dining room works well with the
restaurant’s Peruvian menu. Quirky artwork adorning the wall is great for
starting conversations and keeps the atmosphere fun and cheerful. There’s still
an air of sophistication to the décor – the colours are done in rich
jewel-toned hues and with lux velvet. And it’s the attentive service and little
touches, like the mini shelf for purses that retract from the chairs like a CD
player, which reminds you that you’re still at the Four Seasons.
COYA’s ceviche are one of the most ordered dishes and I can
see why. The pargo a la trufa ceviche (AED88)
uses chunks of tender red snapper that are gently marinated with a not-too-citrusy
ponzu and jazzed up with chives. Even the truffle oil, an ingredient that can
sometimes get overpowering, was present in scent and only slightly lingered on
the tongue. Absolutely delicious and a great start to the meal.
The salmon tacos (AED60) may be more accurately described as
a tostada: cubes of salmon and avocado sitting on a crispy fried tortilla. Once
again, the dish didn’t lack flavour, but the strong ingredients (in this case
the aji amarillo chilli) added just a
bit of heat still allowing us to taste the fish.
While the pulpo
rostizado (AED92) is described as a ‘small dish’, the portion was just as
big as some of the mains. The protein was prepared wonderfully - you barely need
to bite to get through the tendrils of roasted octopus. Yet, there’s something
topping the creamed potatoes that wasn’t my cup of tea – the garlic chips and
bits of olives covering the silky spuds gave it a bitter finish.
COYA offers tons of seafood on their menu. The lubina Chilena (AED180) leans towards
the Japanese influences of Peruvian cuisine tasting like miso black cod rather
than anything to do with the aji amarillo
described on the menu. Nevertheless, the fish is cooked beautifully and it was
a tasty rendition of miso cod.
I would go back for an entire langosta iron pot (AED158) for myself. The rice a luscious risotto
that stays warm in the clay vessel. It’s everything I want with a risotto – creamy
texture, just enough moisture, and filled with lobster essence with a bit of
pea shoot for freshness.
COYA prepares chicken well, their pollo a la parrilla (AED148) arrives as four pieces of juicy and tender
boneless meat with a fiery looking sauce covering it. Don’t worry, the aji panca is all look and no spice, instead
adding a smoky flavour and aroma to the fowl. For me, how well a restaurant prepares
chicken is a marker of their chefs’ talent. After all, it’s a protein that
needs to be cooked thoroughly and has a rather neutral taste.
It’s not like the bife
angosto wagyu (AED460), the beef so well-marbled that even being a sirloin
cut there was plenty of flavourful fat covering the tongue. It’s left a ruby
rare and stays that way as the grill it arrives on is all for show and isn’t
actually heated. While the steak was tasty enough on its own, COYA’s chimichurri
is something else – ultra fresh and the micro cubes of onion creating a great
contrast against the rich meat.
Make sure to save room for the churros de naranja (AED52), they are the best I’ve ever had. The pastry’s
centre is fluffy and creamy while the outside delightfully crispy. I had my
doubts as the menu described them as orange and lime churros with a milk
chocolate and dulce de leche sauce –
fruit and chocolate should be kept separate in my books. Luckily, all the citrus
seemed to lie within the dip so I ate the churros
by itself and they were exquisite.
In a city where buildings and new restaurants and being
constructed at a mile-a-minute I can see why COYA is still busy and respected
since its opening in 2014. What a great meal for the senses, for both taste and
sight.
How To Find Them
Location: Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Address: Restaurant Village Four Seasons Resort
Address: Restaurant Village Four Seasons Resort
Website: https://www.coyarestaurant.com/
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Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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