Vegetarians rejoice, you’re no longer restricted to Monday
and Tuesdays for eating at Fat Choi, the plant-based menu run within Soos
restaurant. So go ahead, make a weekend plan to dig into some flavourful Asian
creations.
They even started offering a six-course tasting menu ($55
per person) allowing the table to sample 60% of their offerings. It started with
some scrumptious cakes ($14; normally 4 to an order), a soft steamed
rice cake topped with finely chopped preserved radish. Much silkier than radish
cake, it’s a cross between that and silken tofu. And while the sweet and salty radish
relish was a good start, the dish needed something else (maybe scallions or
fried shallots) and more of their famous sambal as I couldn’t taste a lick of
heat.
One dish that stood the test of time is the dhal and
roti ($14), a deeply flavoured yellow lentil curry topped with onion chili
oil. Yet, it’s the flaky Malay roti that really makes the dish – piping hot and
well toasted with crispy edges. I could eat this with a dip, as a wrap, or
stuffed.
If dining a la carte, it may be wise to order some of the
roti with the satay veg ($19), to dip into the thick savoury
peanut sauce but also to counteract the saltiness of the dish. Served without a
side, the vegetables didn’t need so much seasoning, especially the rapini which
almost seemed like it was marinated in salt water. It’d be wise for Fat Choi to
serve this with rice.
Plenty of slices of “barbeque pork” seitan are tucked into a
fluffy steamed bun to create the char siu bao ($19). It’s tasty, sandwiched
with a large slice of pickled daikon, leaf lettuce, and scallion mayo.
We all agreed something has changed with the prosperity
tossed slaw ($24). It’s still made with twenty ingredients that create a
cacophony of textures, but the ratio of the ingredients has changed – more cabbage
and radish and less herbs? Perhaps it just wasn’t dressed with enough of the yuzu
plum dressing and way too many peanuts, but the salad just didn’t pack
that punch of flavour of the past.
The same can’t be said about the cumin noods ($26).
If you’re a fan of Northern Chinese dishes like dan dan noodles, grilled
lamb skewers and hand-pulled noodles, the dish is the baby born from the trio. But
you must like cumin as there’s tons of it!
Crumbled tofu was flavoured with the spice, a light helping
of numbing Szechuan pepper (thank you!), chili oil, and Chinese vinegar to
create a spicy and savoury concoction. The flat ribbons of noodles had a lovely
springy texture and could hold up against the sauce. Make sure to get a bite
with the crunchy celery, scallions, and micro greens as they help balance out the
cumin.
While I’m happy to hear Fat Choi’s menu is available all the
time, I can’t help but feel it’s not as good as before. Maybe it’s from the
kitchen juggling between two menus or that I couldn’t end the meal with a bowl
of laksa, my favourite dish from Fat Choi and Soos. Still, at $55 their tasting
menu is reasonably priced and satisfying, a win for veggies for sure.
In a nutshell...
- Must order: dhal and roti and char siu bao
- Just skip: prosperity tossed slaw
Address: 94 Ossington Avenue
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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